Glueing on appendages

[Dan_Smullen]

Next step for me is to glue down these chines/spray rails.





Intent is to roll neat, let tack, spread peanut butter, and then screw down until glue sets. Once cured, remove screws, drill out holes and fill with more goo. All will then be covered with 10oz cloth and faired.

I guess I have some reservations about the screw holes. Definitely the potential for water inclusion in the future, seems like a long shot.

I guess I’m looking for some consolation. I’m not feeling like getting too creative with clamps and straps to avoid screws, but will if you guys think I should.

Thoughts?

[fallguy1000]

Screw holes are really hard to fill.

If given the choice, I would overdrill the holes on the attachment, not the hull, to 3/16 or 1/4". This would reduce delamination from screws pulling and allow you to fill the holes more properly.

Also, screws tend to pull in one area, so it might be good to use a piece of hardwood with ship tape to avoid creating a wave at screw points.

[OneWayTraffic]

I would feel a lot better about those holes if there were a layer of tape over them myself. That will help eliminate pinholes. I have just drilled out all the screw holes in my transom at 6mm. They will get at least one layer of glass over them.

[Aripeka Angler]

If you are opposed to screws, you can position 2x2’s vertically at intervals on your side panels with bar clamps. The 2x will keep the add-on appendage in place and keep it from sliding down. The clamping force to the boat could be done a combination of ratchet straps and vee blocks screwed to the before mentioned 2x2s. Shouldn’t take too much pressure, just enough to keep the chine wedge in place while the wood flour/epoxy sets. Some temporary hot glued blocks below the chine board would be helpful as well.

[cape man]

I disagree that screw holes are hard to fill. I just mashed epoxy mixed with wood flour to a peanut butter consistency into the holes until it squeezed out the other side. You can also use a syringe to inject it. To attach my spray rails on the OD18 I drilled holes through the rail and the side of the boat, and used thin stainless bolts, washers, and wing nuts to tighten them down until the glue set. Most of the bolts were easy to just knock out with a hammer, and the others I just unscrewed them from the outside. The wing nuts allow you to gently and evenly tighten everything down as you are gluing it on. I taped around the edges of the rails to prevent the thickened epoxy from getting on the sides when I squeezed some out. In hind sight I should have pulled that tape earlier - as soon as the epoxy had started to set.

[fallguy1000]

I disagree that screw holes are hard to fill. I just mashed epoxy mixed with wood flour to a peanut butter consistency into the holes until it squeezed out the other side. You can also use a syringe to inject it.

He won't see the other side and it is real easy to topfill and get nothing in the bottom.

A syringe is a great idea if the holes have gravity..

[Jeff]

Nice Cape Man!!! Jeff

[OrangeQuest]

Bottom out the needle of the syringe and slowly remove it as you push the plunger down. Throw away basting syringes from $1.00 store come with a needle, just have to have a runny filler. May still be left with a dimple to fill. Good way to get deep holes filled but would need a second pass with thicker putty mix to fill the shallow hole.

You can also over drill the screw holes, force epoxy putty into the hole and then force a wooden dowel that is slightly smaller in diameter of the holes. The dowel will not only force the putty down into the hole but force it out as well so you will get squeeze out . Cut off flush, sand and glass over. I save chop sticks for this purpose. Because they are not perfectly round they allow the putty to "vent" and squeeze out.

I have used the bolts with large fender washers and wing nuts, works fantastic. Very easy to control the pressure you want to apply.

[cape man]

He won't see the other side and it is real easy to topfill and get nothing in the bottom.

He'll see it when he flips the boat Doesn't really need to be filled until then anyway.

[Dan_Smullen]

He won't see the other side and it is real easy to topfill and get nothing in the bottom.

He'll see it when he flips the boat Doesn't really need to be filled until then anyway.

I definitely appreciate the confidence that I will eventually be flipping!

Those spray rails cherry, Cape Man? They look great like the rest of your boat.

All good advice as always, gents. The dowels may become part of it. In addition to the rolled on neat epoxy on the hull, I'm going to lay a layer of 12oz on the hull, under the appendages which will at least certainly seal the existing screw holes that are left over from the forming/shaping.

Also, going to experiment with some clamping configurations to avoid using screws.

Imagine the worst case scenario... A crack develops in the glass covering the chines. Water seaps into the wood, then finds its way to a screw hole, which leads into the hull plywood. Wouldn't take long for that to ruin the entire boat. Risk seems to high to take any chances.

IMHO, at a minimum, any holes at least need to be drilled out and filled.