Ongoing C19 questions...

[fallguy1000]

I used plywood in two places inthe Skoota build. One of them filled with water and the plywood got wet and shape shifted.

The best way to build the ply boats is to plan for ingress, but attempt to avoid it.

This would be running a bilge pump area and basically sealing it off.

The sole edges and penetrations must all be sealed with 1708 or 1208 tapes. Penetrations must be overbored and epoxied and rebored. The bilge pump lid sealed in butyl or 4200 with pull handles and no sealant on the resting flange or it'll never lift up.

And the plastic under the foam idea is best. The aluminum skiffs here foam with the sole out. That way they can make sure the foam doesn't go into limbers.

Plan for a dry bilge, but accomodate wet and then fix the source of the leak.

Another thing people do is add sightglass or pie eyes. A 2" or 3" piece of pvc that allows you to see into the bilge area. Shine a flashlight and check for water now n then.

I get the tomtom approach. The problem with the approach os that sealing the sole down perfectly onto the compartments is nearly impossible. The glue slides off the cleat tops and you end up with some or quite a few compartments sharing environments. If you are the builder like Tom; you can checkerboard and come out better. But even his build ought to have a few pie eyes at the stern to see if water gets in.

It is an imperfect world, but boats must manage water.

Many, many balsa cored boats had people put screws pr thru hulls in them and when they did; they basically killed the hull.

[Dan_Smullen]

New query... Chase tubes.

Mocked up layout in the picture below. Asking for opinions before drilling holes or buying more pipe.

Utilities requiring conduit are
Gas (1" ok?)
Power (wiring harness, main power, and small gauge wiring for aft lights or any aft mounted accessories (2' as mocked up)
Hydraulic steering hose

Do you think I can count on running hydraulic line and all wiring in one conduit?

Does anyone see any problems with the tubes being so far outboard? C/L of 2-1/2" holes are 4-5" in from the end of the frame.

Can hydraulic steering line and fuel share a conduit?

[cracked_ribs]

This is hardly definitive but personally I don't like the idea of running wiring in the same tube as anything else, and I don't really like the idea of running fuel in the same tube as anything else either.

In particular though, my belief is that wiring should be separated simply because once it's in the tube, you won't see any damage to the jacket via friction unless you pull it out. Nobody regularly removes wiring to inspect it, obviously, so you're just assuming the insulation is intact.

Maybe it's paranoid but I don't like the idea of a wire bundle with a heavier line like a hydraulic hose bouncing around in the same tube, and maybe working its way back and forth a little whenever the steering gets cranked one way or another. If the wires short you might not notice it until you have a real problem. If the weather turned when we were out fishing Constance Bank when I was a kid, my dad used to say "we'd better hot-foot it back in before this gets dangerous" so in some cases hot feet must be desirable but an electrical fire below decks still remains one of my biggest fears.

Just my personal view, though.

[Dan_Smullen]

I’m with you. Fuel line will get its dedicated tube.

[TomTom]

You could consider sleeves inside a bigger diameter tube as a way to separate every thing.

Fuel should definitely be on its own. I’ve seen some people even run the positive and negative battery cables in separate tubes.

I would be really careful how you fix the pvc pipe to the frames/ through the stringers. I’ve never had a lot of luck with them being properly sealed - though I have been impressed with West Systems G-Flex epoxy on PVC.

Possibly wrap the pvc tube in fiberglass first to stiffen where it goes through the frames. Also bulk up the frame with a small piece of ply either side to make sure you have a bigger gluing area....

[fallguy1000]

I am using black mamba for pvc bonding as per Aripeka Angler.

[VT_Jeff]

Heat treating the pvc before using gflex can supposedly improve the bond, we do that when repairing plastic sups and kayaks.

[Dan_Smullen]

I am using black mamba for pvc bonding as per Aripeka Angler.

Like is used for roofing?

Heat treating the pvc before using gflex can supposedly improve the bond, we do that when repairing plastic sups and kayaks.

I have some G-flex left over from a kayak repair myself and will experiment with that. Do you suggest using cloth with it, or thickened and used like caulk? I'm thinking for sealing around the pipes where they pass through the frame.

I think I'm going with this layout, mirrored on the other side also.



Both tubes will stop at the last frame. 3rd hole in board of the 2 pipes will be filled. This was cut per plans, but abandoned. 2 others in line with it on forward frames have already been filled using the plugs from the hole saw.

Engine controls through the tube with the 2 sweeps. Hydro steering hose through the one with the white 45.

I'm just about convinced I need to buy hydraulic steering hose now and test fit before closing it up. May also gamble on the prospect of getting a new Suzuki 140 with drive by wire controls. How sexy would that be?

[FluidDynamic]

I think for 2021, the Suzuki 115 and 140 will get drive by wire. Previously you had to get 150 or above. I wish I could get it with a 60 hp. I have digital controls on my Verados and love it. Dont know how I'll be able to go back to cable.

[Dan_Smullen]

I think for 2021, the Suzuki 115 and 140 will get drive by wire. Previously you had to get 150 or above. I wish I could get it with a 60 hp.

I just read that today. I’m salivating.