Ongoing C19 questions...

[fallguy1000]

I think for 2021, the Suzuki 115 and 140 will get drive by wire. Previously you had to get 150 or above. I wish I could get it with a 60 hp.

I just read that today. I’m salivating.

Me as well. Drive by wire would be super cool.

[OneWayTraffic]

I am using black mamba for pvc bonding as per Aripeka Angler.

Like is used for roofing?

Heat treating the pvc before using gflex can supposedly improve the bond, we do that when repairing plastic sups and kayaks.

I have some G-flex left over from a kayak repair myself and will experiment with that. Do you suggest using cloth with it, or thickened and used like caulk? I'm thinking for sealing around the pipes where they pass through the frame.

I think I'm going with this layout, mirrored on the other side also.



Both tubes will stop at the last frame. 3rd hole in board of the 2 pipes will be filled. This was cut per plans, but abandoned. 2 others in line with it on forward frames have already been filled using the plugs from the hole saw.

Engine controls through the tube with the 2 sweeps. Hydro steering hose through the one with the white 45.

I'm just about convinced I need to buy hydraulic steering hose now and test fit before closing it up. May also gamble on the prospect of getting a new Suzuki 140 with drive by wire controls. How sexy would that be?

I used G-flex to bond UHMWPE chine strips on to my boat. I thought I'd need to leave some screws in but now I'm not so sure. I did flame treat first. It wouldn't have worked without it, I know because I tested. According to Gougeon sanding alone is enough for PVC IIRC. The bond is a structural one.

Flame treating is like magic. Deposits a bondable surface layer onto any plastic. WEST says that it never hurts to flame if unsure.

[fallguy1000]

Black Mamba is a caulk. But I think I will flame treat the pvc as well.

[Dan_Smullen]

How things have evolved since January.

Still working through plumbing challenges.

The custom fab route is to add some sort of mini stringer that will support the bend in the hose that prevents it from sagging, which could cause air lock trouble. This seems like the long road, and doesn’t yield the best result, which is zero stress on the hose and the surround boat.

Is a 45 degree stainless elbow an allowable for use in a low pressure fuel situation? That will solve the chafing at the hole issue, as well as the compressed hose as it makes the bend.

[fallguy1000]

The only way I'd elbow that is if you have access to the elbow. The thing that happens overtime is the rubber dries and the clamps loosen. The abyc requires access to the filler at tank.

Keep in mind when filling the boat, oftentimes, fuel will sit in that hose until you run for an hour. And these are why it isn't good to use a fitting here. Not about can, but all about ought.

[Dan_Smullen]

The only way I'd elbow that is if you have access to the elbow. The thing that happens overtime is the rubber dries and the clamps loosen. …


Not about can, but all about ought.

Good points. Access is important to me any where possible, which is why I’m regretting any foam. But that’s another thread…

How about a suitable chaffing materia to go between the hose and adjacent fiberglass?

[fallguy1000]

The only way I'd elbow that is if you have access to the elbow. The thing that happens overtime is the rubber dries and the clamps loosen. …


Not about can, but all about ought.

Good points. Access is important to me any where possible, which is why I’m regretting any foam. But that’s another thread…

How about a suitable chaffing materia to go between the hose and adjacent fiberglass?

Inner tube rubber is cheap. Attaching it is trickier, but I think any contact glue would work. I have been using vhb or 3M 4677 iirc

[fallguy1000]

You could also zip tie tube rubber to the hose I suppose.

[VT_Jeff]

You could also zip tie tube rubber to the hose I suppose.

Or fire hose, often used in mooring gear for chafe protection.

[TomTom]

I am using black mamba for pvc bonding as per Aripeka Angler.

Like is used for roofing?

Heat treating the pvc before using gflex can supposedly improve the bond, we do that when repairing plastic sups and kayaks.

I have some G-flex left over from a kayak repair myself and will experiment with that. Do you suggest using cloth with it, or thickened and used like caulk? I'm thinking for sealing around the pipes where they pass through the frame.

I think I'm going with this layout, mirrored on the other side also.



Both tubes will stop at the last frame. 3rd hole in board of the 2 pipes will be filled. This was cut per plans, but abandoned. 2 others in line with it on forward frames have already been filled using the plugs from the hole saw.

Engine controls through the tube with the 2 sweeps. Hydro steering hose through the one with the white 45.

I'm just about convinced I need to buy hydraulic steering hose now and test fit before closing it up. May also gamble on the prospect of getting a new Suzuki 140 with drive by wire controls. How sexy would that be?

I used G-flex to bond UHMWPE chine strips on to my boat. I thought I'd need to leave some screws in but now I'm not so sure. I did flame treat first. It wouldn't have worked without it, I know because I tested. According to Gougeon sanding alone is enough for PVC IIRC. The bond is a structural one.

Flame treating is like magic. Deposits a bondable surface layer onto any plastic. WEST says that it never hurts to flame if unsure.

G Flex is much better on PVC than “normal epoxy” but I would still add an extra piece of plywood either side of where the pipe pass through the frames to give you more surface are for the glue - otherwise they will separate from each other. I think wrapping the pvc in fiberglass at where it passes through would be a good idea to.