Ongoing C19 questions...
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Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
I too would double the ply or use a glass tube. Just sand and wrap the pvc with a couple of layers glass tape at the right places before you install it. A thin coat of glfex on the surface to promote adhesion from the pvc to the glass would give fantastic strength, though not needed with all that surface area. Then push putty between the taped pvc and frame and it will be solid. A fillet around or tabbing if you are paranoid.
Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
First off the fuel hose needs to be protected by a chase tube from the tank to the fill, ABYC Leave about a 6" or or so you can inspect the clamps and hose every year. This is where your aging, wear and tear will be. Not in the chase tube. As fallguy said fuel is left in the tube for the first hour and the fuel line will chafe by the weight of the fuel in it if not supported by a tube on the frames. A 90 degree electrical elbow should allow you to make that turn to the fuel fill or a 30/45? Don't be tied to one angle maybe two 30's may work best.
One another subject did you get rid ot that 4" chase tube? You can only put your controls and nothing else in it.
Tom
One another subject did you get rid ot that 4" chase tube? You can only put your controls and nothing else in it.
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
I wasn't aware that it had to be in a chase tube all the way from the tank to the fill, and do not see how that is feasible in this scenario.
I'm confident this molded trough will support the bottom of the bend of the fill and vent hoses to keep them from sagging below the depth of the fill on the tank. It's a simple plywood form with poly stretched over it. 4 layers of 12oz biax, then cut to fit and glued in place. I stretched poly over it and pressed it tight which resulted in the tightest lamination done over the course of the project. I've since modified the mold to make a "U" shape, rather than an "S". Mold mod took about 10 minutes. There is a second trough in the pic that hasn't yet been cut to size or glued in place. This will support the hoses for the aft tank.TomW1 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 08, 2021 2:20 pm Leave about a 6" or or so you can inspect the clamps and hose every year. This is where your aging, wear and tear will be. Not in the chase tube. As fallguy said fuel is left in the tube for the first hour and the fuel line will chafe by the weight of the fuel in it if not supported by a tube on the frames. A 90 degree electrical elbow should allow you to make that turn to the fuel fill or a 30/45? Don't be tied to one angle maybe two 30's may work best.
Next step will be to glue the sole down over it with inner tube or some other thick-ish neoprene rubber to act as chaffing gear between the hose and the edge of the hole in the sole.
(could be a good boat name right there. The Hole in the Sole)
Rather than a single frame here, I believe I'll box it in with an pie plate access at the top, once removed, will expose the hose clamps at the end of the hose at the fill.
Still there. Not set in place yet, but rolling around in the bilge until I make my way back there.
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Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
No fuel line is required to be chased. They are required to be open to inspection @fill@tank.
Don't be pretending to cite abyc and then be incorrect please.
The lines should be protected from chafing. The reason for the abyc rule on inspection is to retighten a loose clamp! So, you cannot chase the connections.
Addendum:
And extra fittings like elbows require extra inspection/access so here it should be avoided. A simple wrap of the pipe with old clean innertube and electrical tape or zip ties would provide chafing protection. In my build, I cut some ?3" pvc in half and made a tray to zip tie the line to stop movement/chafe.
The weldmount system is handy for a large boat, but too costly for the c19 I'd say. But you can mount a block with epoxy and add say a couple of small screw eyes to zip tie the line away from the sole. Curious to see what you end up doing.
Also, there is no US rule against fuel and electrical being together! They travel together in the rigging at the engine, for heaven's sake. While it may be best to avoid the fuel line contacting wires; it is not expressly forbidden. Now, a sticky surveyor might require lines passing thru a bulkhead to be separated with rubber or caulk which is a pain. And, of course, rules and good practice are not the same. But, please don't overstate good practice. An example of wiring and fuel lines sharing a location is the grounding of metallic fill and vents. The ground wires can travel the same areas as the vents and the fill. If you put a static charge on the fill and it goes to ground; the whole point is providing the safe path. It is not to make the job impossible.
Don't be pretending to cite abyc and then be incorrect please.
The lines should be protected from chafing. The reason for the abyc rule on inspection is to retighten a loose clamp! So, you cannot chase the connections.
Addendum:
And extra fittings like elbows require extra inspection/access so here it should be avoided. A simple wrap of the pipe with old clean innertube and electrical tape or zip ties would provide chafing protection. In my build, I cut some ?3" pvc in half and made a tray to zip tie the line to stop movement/chafe.
The weldmount system is handy for a large boat, but too costly for the c19 I'd say. But you can mount a block with epoxy and add say a couple of small screw eyes to zip tie the line away from the sole. Curious to see what you end up doing.
Also, there is no US rule against fuel and electrical being together! They travel together in the rigging at the engine, for heaven's sake. While it may be best to avoid the fuel line contacting wires; it is not expressly forbidden. Now, a sticky surveyor might require lines passing thru a bulkhead to be separated with rubber or caulk which is a pain. And, of course, rules and good practice are not the same. But, please don't overstate good practice. An example of wiring and fuel lines sharing a location is the grounding of metallic fill and vents. The ground wires can travel the same areas as the vents and the fill. If you put a static charge on the fill and it goes to ground; the whole point is providing the safe path. It is not to make the job impossible.
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Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
With 2 tanks, I have 2 separate fills, and each tank has a 5/8" vent. Is it appropriate to run vent from each tank to a wye like the one in the pic below to the thru hull vent?
Of materials available, I suspect, brass, stainless or nylon or other plastic will be suitable. Correct?
I can do do 2 vents, but would like to avoid 2 thru hulls right next to each other if possible
Of materials available, I suspect, brass, stainless or nylon or other plastic will be suitable. Correct?
I can do do 2 vents, but would like to avoid 2 thru hulls right next to each other if possible
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Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
I think you can IF the output side of the Y is able to vent at a greater volume than the inputs combined. Ex if on input is 3in3 and the other 6in3 you’re 9in3 or larger on the output.
I could be wrong though.
I could be wrong though.
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Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
I have never filled more than one tank at a time. As long as you are doing one at a time it would seem like there is no need to up size to me
- Jaysen
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Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
It not about just filling. I’m t is all venting. And while it seems unlikely there could be need for both tanks to vent simultaneously. It is one of those things that shouldn’t be needed but is smart to do.
Like 12/12 pitch roofs down here. Never going to get enough snow to need that. Yet all the new houses are built to that code.
Like 12/12 pitch roofs down here. Never going to get enough snow to need that. Yet all the new houses are built to that code.
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Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
In SC? Seems like a mighty steep roof in hurricane country. Is it for snow, or some other reason?
I get the thinking of upsizing to maintain flow, but that will lead to upsizing the vent to 1-1/4" which I'm not sure they make, and likely negate the cost savings of going to one vent.
I still have a little time to deliberate over this, but am inclined to go for it.
- Jaysen
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Re: Ongoing C19 questions...
2x5/8id vent should only need 1id. The volume able to be moved through a circle is an exponential thing and not linear. As to the cost, I think the price will be the same no matter what you do. My experience is that pricing always balances out in the end.
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