Thanks for the clear pics. They are much nicer than what I'm using in my SK14. Mine has a bigger footprint, which means less tippy I guess but much more in the way. Very handy.
Dougster
Phantom 16 Bulkhead D Alteration
Re: Phantom 16 Bulkhead D Alteration
Less tippy would have been nice. I did add trim tabs which helped the bow rise/seat tip when getting on plane. Even without the trim tabs, bow rise was pretty minimal. I did get a fair amount of porpoising, which is why I added the trim tabs. Smooth as can be now.
Some hindsight, "I would do differently next time" thoughts after making it and now using it quite a bit.
1. The cockpit doesn't drain super well when water gets in, or when washing down. I decided to have it drain through the back bulkhead into the bilge (center 3rd of bulkhead). If I were to do it again, I would crown the floor into an arch at the center (the center around 1/2" higher than the sides), then put recessed scuppers in the floor in the back two corners (the lowest points). What I have found when washing it on the trailer, you are seldom on flat ground, so the water naturally wants to go to one of the two back corners. Flush floor scuppers with an arched floor would make it drain really well!
2. The compartments I made, the floors are totally flat and they do not have waterproof hatches. I would slope the hatch floors slightly to get positive drainage to the 1 corner drain I built into them.
3. The porpoising I originally got, I don't know if that was due to the lack of lifting strakes, or what the reasoning was. But no matter how much I played with engine trim, it didn't help. Hence why I added trim tabs.
4. The transom height where the motor mounts ended up a little too high, I built it exactly to the plans. Works fine when going straight, but I get a decent amount of cavitation on corners. Lowering that dimension (guessing roughly 1") would probably solve the cavitation issue. I have a 50 HP 20" shaft Honda OB.
5. Lastly, On all the floors, decks, and sides, I just put coat/s of epoxy over the wood and painted over that. The plans do not call for fiberglass cloth and epoxy over the ply in these locations as it isn't needed structurally. But I have found the floors, bulkheads, and decks that are exposed to use (i.e. moveable chairs, crab pots, fishing gear, coolers, etc.), dent and chip the meranti ply fairly easily (even though its coated in epoxy). Bare marine ply then gets exposed to moisture. Thankfully I store my boat in a garaqe, so I re-seal it once the wood has dried out. Even though it would add some weight (I would guess 30 to 50 lbs), I would fiberglass cloth and epoxy all of the decks, floors, cockpit bulkheads, and inside/outside sides of hull. It would help it stand up better to nicks and dents of normal use.
Some hindsight, "I would do differently next time" thoughts after making it and now using it quite a bit.
1. The cockpit doesn't drain super well when water gets in, or when washing down. I decided to have it drain through the back bulkhead into the bilge (center 3rd of bulkhead). If I were to do it again, I would crown the floor into an arch at the center (the center around 1/2" higher than the sides), then put recessed scuppers in the floor in the back two corners (the lowest points). What I have found when washing it on the trailer, you are seldom on flat ground, so the water naturally wants to go to one of the two back corners. Flush floor scuppers with an arched floor would make it drain really well!
2. The compartments I made, the floors are totally flat and they do not have waterproof hatches. I would slope the hatch floors slightly to get positive drainage to the 1 corner drain I built into them.
3. The porpoising I originally got, I don't know if that was due to the lack of lifting strakes, or what the reasoning was. But no matter how much I played with engine trim, it didn't help. Hence why I added trim tabs.
4. The transom height where the motor mounts ended up a little too high, I built it exactly to the plans. Works fine when going straight, but I get a decent amount of cavitation on corners. Lowering that dimension (guessing roughly 1") would probably solve the cavitation issue. I have a 50 HP 20" shaft Honda OB.
5. Lastly, On all the floors, decks, and sides, I just put coat/s of epoxy over the wood and painted over that. The plans do not call for fiberglass cloth and epoxy over the ply in these locations as it isn't needed structurally. But I have found the floors, bulkheads, and decks that are exposed to use (i.e. moveable chairs, crab pots, fishing gear, coolers, etc.), dent and chip the meranti ply fairly easily (even though its coated in epoxy). Bare marine ply then gets exposed to moisture. Thankfully I store my boat in a garaqe, so I re-seal it once the wood has dried out. Even though it would add some weight (I would guess 30 to 50 lbs), I would fiberglass cloth and epoxy all of the decks, floors, cockpit bulkheads, and inside/outside sides of hull. It would help it stand up better to nicks and dents of normal use.
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BarraMan
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 2165
- Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2012 3:44 pm
- Location: Australia
Re: Phantom 16 Bulkhead D Alteration
Congratulations - that is a sweet looking ride!
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