FS14 new build - South Shore MA

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Dougster
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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by Dougster »

Rough areas seem ok to me. White patches can be tested by poking at them with something sharp. If they give or are hollow grind 'em out and patch with glass if big. If small, quarter or so, I'd probably just fair 'em with epoxy and then fairing mix. The areas along the panel joins are long voids and the ones that I would worry over. I'd grind those out and re-tape/glass.

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VT_Jeff
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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by VT_Jeff »

On the ripples left by the sheets: if you let it cure good and hard and then hit it with a random orbital with like 60 or 80 grit(and a good face mask!) you should be able to knock all that crap down without too much trouble. If you don't wait long enough it will gum the paper up quickly. I've had to do the same when I got a bunch of fish eyes on my last build, I think I used a belt sander on that but I don't think you'll need that here.
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joe2700
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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by joe2700 »

The rough areas are fine, thats what it would mostly look like if you didn't do the plastic. You'll sand down the binding string without sanding away the glass itself, then fill the weave with fairing compound to get it smooth.

I think you are probably making your life a little harder with the plastic since you will get an inconsistent surface. Personally I'd either use peelply or just leave it open to cure, but your choice. I left it open I believe that smooth surface in an indication of a very epoxy rich layup FYI. Not a problem for strength but will add the the weight and cost in epoxy.

The slightly cloudy areas are probably fine but the white areas need addressing as others have said.

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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by Nelly »

appreciate all of the input!

fallguy1000
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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by fallguy1000 »

Screwdriver test it all.

Edges are voids. Get an injection needle 0.064" and sam drill bit. Cut a hole with the bit and another one 10" away and inject epoxy until it flows from the other hole. Tape the holes when you pull the needle. Move to the hole that leaked and continue until injected fully.

It might take two days.

When u inject; one hole is needed for venting air and one for the needle. So two holes for each void.
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Nelly
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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by Nelly »

fallguy1000 wrote: Thu Aug 06, 2020 11:28 am Screwdriver test it all.

Edges are voids. Get an injection needle 0.064" and sam drill bit. Cut a hole with the bit and another one 10" away and inject epoxy until it flows from the other hole. Tape the holes when you pull the needle. Move to the hole that leaked and continue until injected fully.

It might take two days.

When u inject; one hole is needed for venting air and one for the needle. So two holes for each void.
kinda like changing lower unit oil on an outboard - open both screws and fill from the bottom....so it pushes all the air out the other side.

Thanks for the tip!

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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by fallguy1000 »

Nelly wrote: Thu Aug 06, 2020 4:11 pm
fallguy1000 wrote: Thu Aug 06, 2020 11:28 am Screwdriver test it all.

Edges are voids. Get an injection needle 0.064" and sam drill bit. Cut a hole with the bit and another one 10" away and inject epoxy until it flows from the other hole. Tape the holes when you pull the needle. Move to the hole that leaked and continue until injected fully.

It might take two days.

When u inject; one hole is needed for venting air and one for the needle. So two holes for each void.
kinda like changing lower unit oil on an outboard - open both screws and fill from the bottom....so it pushes all the air out the other side.

Thanks for the tip!
It will not work well otherwise. I have several hundred holes experience.
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Nelly
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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by Nelly »

Been a frustrating couple of weeks. Was buried under a work project last week and didn't have much time to devote to the boat. It's been hard to motivate too, as we've just been grinding off voids and bad laminations and re-taping most of the exterior seams.

We got everything re-taped and sanded this weekend, and was excited to move things forward for the first time in while. Last night, started with the first coat of fairing material made of epoxy and the purple stuff in the epoxy kit (name escapes me). Mixed a "loose slurry" and spread over the hull with a drywall knife and the smaller plastic spreaders.

After finishing, saw that there were showers headed our way, so covered the boat with tarps overnight. Unfortunately, the tarps did not keep 100% of the water off, there was plenty of water under the tarps, on the still-tacky epoxy this morning. Seems to be a bit of a mess - the tarps also stuck to the epoxy in spots too. So looks like maybe this last step was yet another waste of time/materials that will need to be sanded off and re-done.

On the plus side, I was albe to pick up a used 2006 Mercury 4 stroke locally yesterday. It's in great shape, and I think will push the boat beautifully. Can't wait to be able to hang it on the transom.
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Nelly
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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by Nelly »

Hi all - question for you. What do you recommend for paint? First: bottom primer. System 3 yacht primer? Something else? I see lots of talk about graphite on the bottom as a topcoat, but what about antifouling paint? If it stays in the water when complete, I'd like to keep the growth down. But first things first - what are the options for primer?

I saw this post from another builder's site and thought it was a good guide, offering some alternatives to the system 3 stuff.

https://saltboatworks.com/choosing-paint-primer/

Any thoughts? I don't intend to use a gun - will roll/brush everything. And how much of it do I need to prime the exterior, bottom and sides? Is it worth it to buy a full gallon or can I get by with a quart?

Thanks!

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Re: FS14 new build - South Shore MA

Post by Dan_Smullen »

I finished painting the bottom of mine a few weeks ago using Alexseal as a the top coat.

It is my understanding that S3 Yacht Primer acts as a great seal coat over epoxy and fairing compound. I almost killed myself trying to sand it with 320, and ultimately covered it with Alexseal surfacing primer.

If I had it to do over, I would have covered with 4 coats of S3, then sanded only to 120 grit before transitioning into the Alexseal line. Counting on the S3 as a barrier coat, and the $$$ primer to provide a smooth substrate under finish paint.

For a boat to be left in the water, anti fouling paint is a must I think. I believe S3 will make a good seal coat to be used under anti fouling paint.

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