HMD 21 starting - help

[duysall83]

I would just cut/grind the area of 1 side glass at the joint. No need to remove all the glass.

Wish i knew this before already removed glass, filled between plies and reglassed. Learning

is it just an overshoot or it has negative effect if i use butt blocks inside surfaces of side hulls? My panels are 10% bigger as you know.

[duysall83]

Thanks fallguy and all who commented. My mixing ratio was wrong, after correction local epoxy cures at about 10-12 hrs.

By the way i received west system 2 days ago and used it on one of bottom panels. It cures much faster even at temperatures below 12 celcius.

[fallguy1000]

I pause a bit to comment on Evan's design, but for the timeliness. Butt blocking is generally not needed and glass tapes are sufficient.

Panel seams, including blocks, are not supposed to end on bulkheads is all.

If a designer suggests blocking bs glass tapes vs scarf joins then follow the designer. Typically, a building notes item.

[Cowbro]

Thanks fallguy and all who commented. My mixing ratio was wrong, after correction local epoxy cures at about 10-12 hrs.

By the way i received west system 2 days ago and used it on one of bottom panels. It cures much faster even at temperatures below 12 celcius.

That is good news, I'm glad you got that solved.

[duysall83]

Hello all, this morning i applied 1 layer and in the evening put the second layer glass on this panel. I didnt notice or care while applying second layer but read many things about amine blush in last 2 hours and have paranoia now

Anyone knows what are those white spots? Should i do sth?

[Evan_Gatehouse]

It's hard to be sure.

If I had to guess either glass that was not wet out enough or a dry spot under the glass (the wood absorbed most of the resin).

Are you using plain biaxial tape? If you are using tape with a mat layer, it will be because most mat binder does not dissolve in epoxy very well. So the mat stays white.

Also - work more tidily with your resin. Only apply resin in the area you are working. This avoids waste with coating the plywood many times with epoxy.

[duysall83]

It's hard to be sure.

If I had to guess either glass that was not wet out enough or a dry spot under the glass (the wood absorbed most of the resin).

Are you using plain biaxial tape? If you are using tape with a mat layer, it will be because most mat binder does not dissolve in epoxy very well. So the mat stays white.

Also - work more tidily with your resin. Only apply resin in the area you are working. This avoids waste with coating the plywood many times with epoxy.

No mat. I did those under the shelter and humidity is high these days. I had spliced the first panel inside house and there was nothing like this.

Anyway, do you think i need to do any rework?

[fallguy1000]

Looks like air entrainment. You can test with a screwdriver and see if it moves under pressure.

If the tapes peels off easily; then you had blush.

Probably not.

If you use a consolidation roller; you can force air out real well.

I have also seen white areas if water or sweat gets in, but don't worry about it too much.

Let us knownif they are air bubbles ornif the tapes peel off.

[Dougster]

My thoughts are the same as Fallguy's, check for air bubbles. Re the roller, he means use that during the wet out, not now of course. Instead of a screwdriver I poke on places like that with a box cutter and cut them out if they are bubbles. Then you can be sure the surrounding glass is secure or wants to peel off.

Dougster

[duysall83]

I checked with screw drive the white spots. They're solid, i mean no air bubble. I suspect that excess epoxy mix after the first layer cured on and around cloth and i ignored it and applied second layer. Should i've done sth for the cured excess epoxy?