HMD 21 starting - help

[fallguy1000]

I looked real close at the pictures and things look pretty decent. Just don't expect too much from the tapes; the surfaces need to be reasonably fair.

If you habe any areas of air pocketing; you can spot grind them and repair by using a bit of thickened epoxy and bedding a small piece of tape into the ground area and then sand smooth later.

You can also get stub nose injection needles about 1.5mm and use a 1.5mm drill and drill two holes in each void on the high side and inject epoxy. But I prefer the grind method unless you have too many. i had a panel with maybe two hundred dime sized voids and repaired the whole panel with needle.

But things look far better!

[duysall83]

Thanks fallguy, actually i have a sander also but with even 40 grit paper it was very hard to make a radius. I think i'd consume crazy amount of paper of 40 and more than 6-8 hrs to complete both edges. I may be missing sth, i dont know.

I used 40 grit flap disc with grinder. For the rough 45 degree transition it was very quick. Then with sander i tried fine tuning.

For locally sanding white spots also you recommend sander i think. Gonna try with sander.

Thank you, i didnt realize how critical it is to round the corners till u say "glass doesnt lay in 90 degrees edges". Glad that i could remove glass before cured.

[fallguy1000]

Flap disc is fine.

[duysall83]

My new toy arrived ysterday. After trying maybe 6 kinds of rollers that one really worked. Found it online as "cloth pusher" in Turkey. I guess not a discovery and this is what Fallguy says "consolidation roller". After wetting out a surface, maybe in half an hour when i roll over the glass with patient most of small and bigger bubbles disappeared. Only very tiny ones remained but as fractions rather than air gap. Really close taken pics.

[fallguy1000]

My new toy arrived ysterday. After trying maybe 6 kinds of rollers that one really worked. Found it online as "cloth pusher" in Turkey. I guess not a discovery and this is what Fallguy says "consolidation roller". After wetting out a surface, maybe in half an hour when i roll over the glass with patient most of small and bigger bubbles disappeared. Only very tiny ones remained but as fractions rather than air gap. Really close taken pics.

IMG_20210102_180815.jpgIMG_20210102_181253.jpgIMG_20210102_181326.jpg

I won't laminate without my roller. Looks the same.

Keep doing some reading of the tutorials here and stuff.

[fallguy1000]

I keep mine in acetone bucket with lid all the time.

[Evan_Gatehouse]

Glad you've found a path forward with the roller.

[duysall83]

Glad you've found a path forward with the roller.

Hello Evan,

For the skeg i was thinking what to do or buy new wood. Then i saw one of okume leftovers from cnc cut. Shape was very similar so i tried to fit, almost perfectly fitted. Little trimming then used as pattern and made 3 more of it. 4 layers and about 38 mm thick now, still in lamination. As far as i understood from threads and tutorials it was ok to joint pieces for skeg, hope so. If not doable, i can waste what i did and find new wood.

Thanks

[fallguy1000]

Skeg looks good to me. Just make sure it is straight!

[Evan_Gatehouse]

It's fine to do it this way.