HMD 21 starting - help

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duysall83
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by duysall83 »

Hello, this is a view from one of the bottom panel. Which i applied glass before the magical roller. All of them smaller than 3 mm in diamater, actually most of them around 2 mm but there are many through that panel.

That requires me to remove/grind whole glass? Or that size is negligible despite the high amount? I do make progress on the boat but those are pain in the ass 🤦i was afraid to ask but i should.

Thanks

Duysal
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fallguy1000
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by fallguy1000 »

I think okay for hmd 21, not okay for 250hp planing hull

Do better, though. You are either dry or wrong consolidation roller in pic. Or drysuck from not precoating?

Try to see if resin flows into any of them. Hard to ses for sure.
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duysall83
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by duysall83 »

fallguy1000 wrote: Mon Jan 11, 2021 12:51 pm I think okay for hmd 21, not okay for 250hp planing hull

Do better, though. You are either dry or wrong consolidation roller in pic. Or drysuck from not precoating?

Try to see if resin flows into any of them. Hard to ses for sure.
I had precoated them maybe 2 werks prior to glassing. This is first panel i applied glass without roller. Second panel i used the roller with grooves and almost no bubble, ply under visible through the panel, almost no spots.

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Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by Evan_Gatehouse »

OK - no, not too bad. Do try to do better. Keep the resin and hardener warm until you are going to use it. If it is too cold, it will be thick like cold honey. And then it will not wet out the glass easily.

Use your roller more firmly. Usually bubbles like that are visible a few minutes after you stop rolling.

If you put resin on bare wood, and the wood warms up (like in the sun), the wood will give off tiny amounts of gas. This can also form bubbles. So apply glass in the shade, or when the temperature is dropping, like in the later part of the afternoon.
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24

fallguy1000
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by fallguy1000 »

Make sure after precoating that the surfsces are not greasy. That is amine blush and mist be washed with warm soapy water and dried 24 hours or warm gunned to epoxy same day.

Also, any epoxy left for a few days precoating must be sanded a bit.

It is possible the wood outgassed if you sanded into some bare wood. But you would be able to catch it watching closely and hit with consolidating roller and get air out.

Good catch Evan. It does look like some gassing off. Some epoxies are more prone to it than others; so pay attention to Evan's advice to reduce it as well.
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duysall83
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by duysall83 »

Evan_Gatehouse wrote: Tue Jan 12, 2021 10:09 pm OK - no, not too bad. Do try to do better. Keep the resin and hardener warm until you are going to use it. If it is too cold, it will be thick like cold honey. And then it will not wet out the glass easily.

Use your roller more firmly. Usually bubbles like that are visible a few minutes after you stop rolling.

If you put resin on bare wood, and the wood warms up (like in the sun), the wood will give off tiny amounts of gas. This can also form bubbles. So apply glass in the shade, or when the temperature is dropping, like in the later part of the afternoon.
Thank you Evan, very happy at least no removing the glass. When i do this panel i used only brush, no roller. Second panel is much better that i used roller with grooves.

Only thing remains amine blush. I never can be sure if i have it or no. I grind some spots which i suspect. Applied water on some areas. What should i notice to be sure its Amine blush?

fallguy1000
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by fallguy1000 »

Amine blush will feel greasy
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Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by Evan_Gatehouse »

Sometimes you can't tell if the epoxy has blushed. Just assume it has happened. It is worse in cold, damp weather. Working outside on a hot sunny day it is less likely but some epoxies are worse than others.

Before adding more fiberglass to area with existing fiberglass or before painting, just wipe down with a green plastic scrubby pad (like you use to wash dishes) and some warm water.
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by blueflood »

Speaking of blushing....
When I knew little about epoxies, one day I had worked on my cedar strip canoe; did epoxy coating on new cloth - late, during a warm and humid day. All looked good so left it (outside uncovered).

Next day after a cool and humid morning , got up to work on it. It was 😳 WTF totally white. The blush did come off with sanding/ washing but it gave me a wicked scare 😀. That was with WEST epoxy. It was the last time I bought WEST but even with S3, I am more aware now.

Pick the right time of day...keep an eye on the temp and humidity.

Marc

duysall83
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Re: HMD 21 starting - help

Post by duysall83 »

Little progress during snow and storms for 3 weeks. Keeping on trial/error :)

But getting close to flip i guess. God knows how i will do it.

Installed bow eye pad. After many trials for smooth transition, ended with 3 layers glass on pad. :)

Remaining 3rd and last layer of rubrail.
Radius and fillet then glass the skeg. also need to cut rear extension of skeg (waiting for a saw which i ordered) Then fairing. White spots mostly dust.

I understand from threads and plan that glassing rubrail is optional, or after flip i should glass covering with side deck.

I used 3 meters long timbers for rubrail without cutting into short. Trying to bend in 2 directions was hard but mostly i was able to follow the hull upper side.

What wakes me up yesterday is that upper edges at the bow dont meet. (I mean lower edges relative to ground, not seen on the pic) Proper way is to fill that gap after flip with thickened epoxy or should i cut the bow edges of rubrail angled to form a decent triangle? Already late for the angle cut.
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