I see differing opinions of when to cut in and tab the tunnel. Some say after entire bottom is glassed and some say after all seams are taped.
Other question is my strong back is too high for me to reach across bottom to glass it. Thinking I could remove the molds and lower down onto the frame of the strong back. Opinions appreciated
XF20 Tunnel
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Re: XF20 Tunnel
About the tunnel: I like to build the hull in one piece, without the tunnel cut and build the tunnel as separate box but with just minimal taping. Then cut the tunnel opening and graft the tunnel to the hull with all the glass layers specified on the plans.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: XF20 Tunnel
Re the lower the boat to the frame thing: I avoided that by just getting a couple of 8' 2 x 8 planks and setting them up a foot or so on both sides of the boat. I had the planks so it was easier.
Dougster
Dougster
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Re: XF20 Tunnel
What height did you set your strong back? I’m building a rolling strong back for my build. I wanted to keep it short enough for faring the bottom at the most comfortable height.
Re: XF20 Tunnel
I made mine about 4 feet high and just had to climb up on it to glass and fair. Buy kneepads...they're a lifesaver. You have to build it high enough to make sure the bow clears. I think my bow was about 10 inches off the ground.
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Re: XF20 Tunnel
I built the strong back about thigh high then attached molds. Boat is so wide that it is very difficult to reach across. I may come up with a way to support the strong back and shorten the legs. Guess I could use maybe four jacks
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Re: XF20 Tunnel
I got my rolling dolly built. I’m going to install 2 2X6’s as my strong back on top of this. This puts the top of the strong back at about 16” off the floor. Most frames are about 24” tall that will put the bottom of the boat at 40” off the floor. I’m going to be crawling all over this thing but it’s about as low as I could make it so that helps.
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