Panga 25 With Bracket

[Chessie]

Since I didn’t get an answer in the original thread and question, very rare for this forum, I figured I would ask it separately.

Still thinking about my building options and the Panga remains on the short list although the offshore abilities of the Panga 25 are causing me to rethink my options.

The sole purpose would be to make the 25 a 40-60 mile offshore boat, ON SELECT DAYS. Because of this I need the security of a second motor. Running out of Ocean City, Md.

Can the 25 be outfitted with a conventional bracket like an Armstrong or Stainless Marine with the built in kicker mount? The obvious alternative is the standard transom setup for both engines, but kicker brackets can be temperamental. I’d lime to avoid that if possible as well as maybe gain an extra foot or so in the cockpit by maybe cutting back on the splashwell.

Any bracket would ABSOLUTELY BE foam filled to help offset the setback and motor weight as well as supplemental foam in the hull as permitted.



Ona side note, what are the designed/ optional transom heights on the Panga 22 & 25?

Chris

[BrianC]

Panga question for Jacques

Panga 25 - power and placement

[Chessie]

Thanks Brian. In looking for this info I had seen the first thread but did not see the other one.

I guess the only question I still have is how much setback is too much if a jackplate at 6” is OK?

The Porta Brackets can go as low as 17” setback, although not sure on their lift and tilt clearances on a transom like the Panga.

Still find it hard to believe that with added foam in bracket and in the hull the weight differences can’t be offset enough. If it’s a concentrated load issue on the transom, that’s different.

Chris

[BrianC]

Still find it hard to believe that with added foam in bracket and in the hull the weight differences can’t be offset enough. If it’s a concentrated load issue on the transom, that’s different.

Floatation of the bracket is irrelevant when running at planning speeds since the bracket is fully out of the water. It is only the added weight offset that influences the trim. Since the Panga narrow at the transom, it is particularly sensitive to this issue.

[Chessie]

Good info, thank you.

I assume the use of trim tabs would still leave it squatting in the rear? Proper trim would help level everything out and when running on plane, this boat with its flatter back section should be on top of the water, hence its efficiency. This compared to a deep v like my V20 that cuts through the water.

Or does none of that matter and the narrow transom allows it to squat no matter what.

Just trying to get my head screwed on straight before committing to a design and intended use.

It prevents regrets and mistakes later.

Chris

[fallguy1000]

Good info, thank you.

I assume the use of trim tabs would still leave it squatting in the rear? Proper trim would help level everything out and when running on plane, this boat with its flatter back section should be on top of the water, hence its efficiency. This compared to a deep v like my V20 that cuts through the water.

Or does none of that matter and the narrow transom allows it to squat no matter what.

Just trying to get my head screwed on straight before committing to a design and intended use.

It prevents regrets and mistakes later.

Chris

Static trim and trim underway two separate babies.

A boat overloaded on her arse will sit lower in the water at rest. A planing craft will rise up and level out or close underway above planing speeds.

Trim tabs are used to keep the nose down mostly. A boat with no tabs may porpoise or bounce when underway even or simply ride bow up so high the guy droving can't see.

Tabs can be used to keep the nose down at low speeds as well.

A Panga is a notoriously narrow boat, ftmp. Adding a ton of weight further aft on a bracket will likely take her off level at rest. Here is a google shot of a twin engine bracketed panga. You can see she rides a bit low aft at slow speed as here.

[Crystal Craft]

Hi Chris
I’m building a Panga 25 with accommodations for a bracket and a trolling (rescue as well) motor. I troll on Lake Michigan and like the high full height transom when going with the rollers. I’m going with the bracket from Stainless Marine 12 degrees 18 in set back for 25 in shaft motor. My motor is a 60 hp 4 stroke Tohatsu at 238 lbs. my trolling motor is currently a 6 BP 4 stroke Tohatsu sail pro 25 in I have this motor. I realize I might need to upgrade to 9.9 but I’ll try the 6 first. The 6 weighs 63 lbs. A 9.9 is 120.
The transom is a tight fit for both brackets. I need min 22 in center to center and that puts the trolling motor mount plate way to the edge. I can make a 15 in set back work for the trolling motor. I’ve had both of these motors on a 20 ft Brockway style skiff build same set up and “just” clear transom when all up. All worked great. The kicker is a fixed bracket so when up even to Tilt position it clears the water flow when underway at a plane on that boat. Hoping for same here or I can tilt it all up. The 15 in setback allows access to manually tilt up that motor rather easily and mine is pull start controls are easy to reach. My aft deck on that boat is about 16 inches. A snap on linkage connects the motors fine.
I’m right now doing the glasswork and sole frames on my build. I’m adding to the stringers by laminate 1/2 ply and glasswork a vertical support or full height “knee” full height to the too aft deck. Up the transom about 12 in deep. These are 30 in apart on this boat. I’m adding on more 1/2 ply full transom inside glassed well into the sides as well. Then one more just between these knees about 30 wide and full height apx 40 in. All glassed in together. The plans show an angular support or bottom to the would be motor well. I’ll make this flat and glass it in good as well. A nice shelf too. Total transom is 2 in and between knees 2 1/2 for bracket bolts then....
In my thinking I’m undecided about with advise welcomed is a 1/4 aluminum plate thru bolted back 24 along the stringers and full height up the knees? And I could put a 1/4 plate outside between the bracket and transom for added force distribution? 28 height and 36 wide. Then further I bolt this plate thru to the knees. And do I overbite the bracket holes to 2 in and epoxy fill and reborn to 1/2 bolt size? Do move my consul ahead? 12 in?? I’ll have fuel tank in bow area? These adds I need advise on.
I’ll go with hydronic steering and auto pilot. I need auto to hold my course when landing fish at times a long process with 30 lb king salmon in the fight at times!
The Pangas aft deck also ties the aft end together vs an open motor well.
I’m really glad to see your post topic I need advise too! Hope this helps! I hope for help too!!
Steve
Crystal Craft
Michigan. 33 degrees

[Crystal Craft]

Hi Chris
I’m building a Panga 25 with accommodations for a bracket and a trolling (rescue as well) motor. I troll on Lake Michigan and like the high full height transom when going with the rollers. I’m going with the bracket from Stainless Marine 12 degrees 18 in set back for 25 in shaft motor. My motor is a 60 hp 4 stroke Tohatsu at 238 lbs. my trolling motor is currently a 6 BP 4 stroke Tohatsu sail pro 25 in I have this motor. I realize I might need to upgrade to 9.9 but I’ll try the 6 first. The 6 weighs 63 lbs. A 9.9 is 120.
The transom is a tight fit for both brackets. I need min 22 in center to center and that puts the trolling motor mount plate way to the edge. I can make a 15 in set back work for the trolling motor. I’ve had both of these motors on a 20 ft Brockway style skiff build same set up and “just” clear transom when all up. All worked great. The kicker is a fixed bracket so when up even to Tilt position it clears the water flow when underway at a plane on that boat. Hoping for same here or I can tilt it all up. The 15 in setback allows access to manually tilt up that motor rather easily and mine is pull start controls are easy to reach. My aft deck on that boat is about 16 inches. A snap on linkage connects the motors fine.
I’m right now doing the glasswork and sole frames on my build. I’m adding to the stringers by laminate 1/2 ply and glasswork a vertical support or full height “knee” full height to the too aft deck. Up the transom about 12 in deep. These are 30 in apart on this boat. I’m adding on more 1/2 ply full transom inside glassed well into the sides as well. Then one more just between these knees about 30 wide and full height apx 40 in. All glassed in together. The plans show an angular support or bottom to the would be motor well. I’ll make this flat and glass it in good as well. A nice shelf too. Total transom is 2 in and between knees 2 1/2 for bracket bolts then....
In my thinking I’m undecided about with advise welcomed is a 1/4 aluminum plate thru bolted back 24 along the stringers and full height up the knees? And I could put a 1/4 plate outside between the bracket and transom for added force distribution? 28 height and 36 wide. Then further I bolt this plate thru to the knees. And do I overbite the bracket holes to 2 in and epoxy fill and reborn to 1/2 bolt size? Do move my consul ahead? 12 in?? I’ll have fuel tank in bow area? These adds I need advise on.
I’ll go with hydronic steering and auto pilot. I need auto to hold my course when landing fish at times a long process with 30 lb king salmon in the fight at times!
The Pangas aft deck also ties the aft end together vs an open motor well.
I’m really glad to see your post topic I need advise too! Hope this helps! I hope for help too!!
Steve
Crystal Craft
Michigan. 33 degrees

[TomW1]

On the PG25 if you add a 24" bracket you are adding about 3-400lbs plus the weight of the bracket depending on motor. Plus add the weight of the trolling motor This is an equivalent of 9-1200 lbs. of lever weight that you need to move forward of the LCG. I don't know where that is on the PG25 but Jacques normally puts it at the back of the console.

So lets do the calculation: Weight of motor moved back 2' 700lbs. New bracket 150bs of aluminum added from LCG at WL 150*10=1500 trolling motor 100*10=1000 So we have to add an equivalent weight forward of the LCG. The further forward you add the weight the more it helps you. The total lever weight is 3200lbs. Divide that by 10 and you only need to move 320 lbs forward that much. Move the console, the seat and you and your fishing buddy forward 6" and that is part of it. Move the batteries forward also Dual 32, 150lbs, 20', 3000lbs, since batteries are normally in the back near the motor. I used 10 and 20 feet for ease of calculation. Remember all lengths are along the waterline.

While these are rough calculations they are the ones that must to be made when adding a bracket. Especially to a boat like the Panga25.

[TomTom]

What I’ve seen many people do is make a mounting/ place for the “get me home”‘engine on a Panga to live most of its life inside the boat. They only actually get hung on the transom when they are needed to get you home. So long as you don’t drop it overboard it means that they stay dry and better protected from the elements.

Rather than a bracket if you made a full width transom I think the Panga would be wide enough to have a kicker next to the main engine and I suspect would have less affect on trim than a bracket.

Either way if you made your transom full width you could squeeze twins on there if that’s what you wanted to do.