PG 20 Wiring Critique

[FluidDynamic]

Thanks for the help. I need it for electrical.

[fallguy1000]

Y can't u just fuse and power the simrad off an on? I see no reason to switch it.

If i switch everything on the Skoota, I need like 30 switches.

Okay, maybe I misread. They are not push buttons switches, but fuses, right?

[joe2700]

Does he fuse nearer the battery or nearer the acr? I'm tthinking battery.

Agreed, near battery(source of power). Then you fuse the negative from the ACR near the ACR because if the ACR failed hot, that wire would be acting as a positive not a negative.

On my boat I also fused the primary wires from battery positives to battery switch with very large fuses, but that is not as standard a practice. Blue seas makes high amperage fuses that mount right to the battery terminal called MRBF. I put a duel MRBF on each battery, one fuse for the ACR, one for the starting/house. Makes me feel better about the 12' of very large battery cable heading from the console to the back of the boat that would otherwise be unfused.

This is what they look like.

But you also need to fuse the connections from each battery positive to the ACR which is missing in FluidDynamics diagram. Those fuses are larger because it's much larger wire.
Thanks for ponting this out. I didnt see it. I'm trying to figure our what size fuse now.

You also need a fuse between the battery switch and house loads, I'm guessing that's the square rectangle with 2 circles in it.
The round circles are the built in fuses for each load. They are push button.

Should I also have a circuit breaker between the battery and the switches?

The ACR instructions have a table that tells you the fuse to use based on your alternator size and wire size assuming a blue sea systems one. Ballpark 40-100 Amps

And I see those fuses on each load. I would still put a circuit breaker on the house out of the battery switch, but I guess as long as every individual load is fused you don't need it.

As I said above I put a fuse between battery and battery switch but don't think that is standard practice.

[narfi]

you may or may not know, the simrad go has two different ways you can turn it on and off depending on how you wire it. One way you turn it on with the power button on the MFD, the other way is it automatically turns on when it receives power. I have a very simple system so I powered mine through a switch on the panel that matches my other few switches.

[Jaysen]

I changed the ACR grounds. The positives are seperate isolations blocks. I guess with the sound, are you saying you would have a switch for the amp and head unit?

Yes. Separate switch. You need to be able to shut it off hard without needing tools.

Consider motor alternator failure. All you want on at that point are safety equipment. Nav lights, vhf (switch to handheld), and bilge when you see it filling. Every other device should be off ensuring as much juice as possible to the motor. Even better would be small kicker you could run. Either way... kill all unneeded electronics hard.

Hope that makes sense.

[FluidDynamic]

Does he fuse nearer the battery or nearer the acr? I'm tthinking battery.

Agreed, near battery(source of power). Then you fuse the negative from the ACR near the ACR because if the ACR failed hot, that wire would be acting as a positive not a negative.

On my boat I also fused the primary wires from battery positives to battery switch with very large fuses, but that is not as standard a practice. Blue seas makes high amperage fuses that mount right to the battery terminal called MRBF. I put a duel MRBF on each battery, one fuse for the ACR, one for the starting/house. Makes me feel better about the 12' of very large battery cable heading from the console to the back of the boat that would otherwise be unfused.

This is what they look like.

But you also need to fuse the connections from each battery positive to the ACR which is missing in FluidDynamics diagram. Those fuses are larger because it's much larger wire.
Thanks for ponting this out. I didnt see it. I'm trying to figure our what size fuse now.

You also need a fuse between the battery switch and house loads, I'm guessing that's the square rectangle with 2 circles in it.
The round circles are the built in fuses for each load. They are push button.

Should I also have a circuit breaker between the battery and the switches?

The ACR instructions have a table that tells you the fuse to use based on your alternator size and wire size assuming a blue sea systems one. Ballpark 40-100 Amps

And I see those fuses on each load. I would still put a circuit breaker on the house out of the battery switch, but I guess as long as every individual load is fused you don't need it.

As I said above I put a fuse between battery and battery switch but don't think that is standard practice.

I like that fuse connected to the battery terminal. I think I'll look into that. I'm adding a circuit breaker between the battery switch and the rocker switches.

[FluidDynamic]

you may or may not know, the simrad go has two different ways you can turn it on and off depending on how you wire it. One way you turn it on with the power button on the MFD, the other way is it automatically turns on when it receives power. I have a very simple system so I powered mine through a switch on the panel that matches my other few switches.

Yea, I'm going with the auto on option. Once the battery switch is turned on, the Simrad, amp, and Fusion radio turn on automatically.

[FluidDynamic]

I just want to thank you FD for sticking your neck out.

I am a little confused about not running through the switches, but I didn't intend to run all my stuff through the switch panel as too many swotches then.

I have mine to do as well and am curious how you did the drawings so neatly.

Agree. I'm not switching radio, mdf, or amp. I want them to come on when the battery switch is on.

I use CAD alot. I just started with my loads and designed system backwards. I have to draw everything before I build.

[FluidDynamic]

Y can't u just fuse and power the simrad off an on? I see no reason to switch it.

If i switch everything on the Skoota, I need like 30 switches.

Okay, maybe I misread. They are not push buttons switches, but fuses, right?

I have rocker switches and push button fuses on the panel.

[fallguy1000]

I changed the ACR grounds. The positives are seperate isolations blocks. I guess with the sound, are you saying you would have a switch for the amp and head unit?

Yes. Separate switch. You need to be able to shut it off hard without needing tools.

Consider motor alternator failure. All you want on at that point are safety equipment. Nav lights, vhf (switch to handheld), and bilge when you see it filling. Every other device should be off ensuring as much juice as possible to the motor. Even better would be small kicker you could run. Either way... kill all unneeded electronics hard.

Hope that makes sense.

Is this why we see an instruments switch on the panel? So that we can kill power to say 3-6 items in an emergency?

ty, Dan