LB26

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jacquesmm
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Re: LB26

Post by jacquesmm »

A little bit of fairing is expected. It is almost impossible to align the molds perfectly. The foam panels will help with the fairing.
For the sheer clamp, you can laminate several thin layers instead of steaming.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com

les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Cheers Jacques

As mentioned before this is my first build so please drop in and if you see any issues please let me know.

So far though the info and drawings are great. ( sure I will need advice though as I progress )

Started the planking and all good so far, i am sure there will be fairing but all part of the game..... Have to say really enjoying the build ( not sure Nicki is though !!! )

Thanks

Les

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Fairing is a lot if work, but those humps forward are a fairing nightmare as is any hump. Tons of fill results in many days extra as well.

I learned the best way to fair is to walk the boat with the tool you intend to use as the fairing board and write on the boat in sharpie the fill dimension estimate. This helped me loads on hull 2. Someday hull 1 will need to be airfiled and redone, but I will pay someone then because I can't really tolerate the torture board now.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Hi Boat People

Question !!! What is the best tool for shaving / sanding high density foam. The ordinary Corecell is not a problem but the high density is a bugger...

Will post a few planking photos later.

Cheers

Les

les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Guys

A photo of my planking.
29AD433F-A108-436F-9207-8AFC9BFF556D.jpeg

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

My favorite means to deal with foam.

Festool RTS 400

The festool sander is used in my shop almost everyday.

Today, I will sand off some cabosil from overbored holes in 3/4" plywood windshield frame cleats and to sand some cabosil joints a wee bit. I spent well over a grand on papers.

Epoxy secondary bonds require mechanical key. The best key is a wire brush per my reading, but very impractical to wire brush around foam. Just use 40-60 grit papers and the Festool.

I also have a handhold yellow piece of foam that can ise the same papers that gets a lot of use.

And for cruder grinding projects, another tool that gets a lot of use is a handheld carbide file. It is really handy for filing inside holes or places the Festool or papers won't reach.

For fairing, I also use the inside of a pvc pipe with velcro glued in if I need to form a radius. To make this tool, you hotglue a piece of pvc to a nice straight board and rip a piece of pvc down. I can try to find the size of the pvc; it is a little bigger than most of the radius forming, but it also uses the Festool papers.

Some creativity is useful, but plan to spend a bit of money and get the festool.

I purchased a very fancy 8" rotary air sander and papers and it all cost about a grand. Pretty much usesless because my air system would need an extensive dryer. The thing makes ice in about a minute of use. So, after longboarding, I even used the Festool on the sides of the boat for sanding the primer prior to paint. We used 220 grit. The papers do not stand up to epoxy well and you get about 6-10 square feet before the paper stops producing dust. For 2 part polyurethane, sanding before a final coat is even worse. The papers only get about two square feet. That stuff is really, really hard on papers. But that is a cost of two part catalyzing paintwork.

This is the handfile. I bought two because I can never find the thing. It gets set down and ends up under stuff often because of the flat shape.

https://www.amazon.com/Kutzall-Original ... B014LPIDHQ

I also use a piece of 3/4" black pipe and I made an inside corner forming tool and made a couple youtubes on some of the ways we deal with corners. Boat corners are rarely square or sharp edges; especially where people are moving.

Another tool I use is an electric planer for making rebates for seams. The video is not public because I am technically doing it wrong, but my method works. A tape relief is common in foam boat building because you don't have to fair so doggone much to make perfect flats.

Anyhow, here is one video.

https://youtu.be/o74PwqLduus

And another one.

https://youtu.be/305KInGFb4E


...you may have more questions, feel free to ask
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

For just cutting, I use a sharp utility knife, but it has to have a perfect edge. For a foam build, get about 100 blades.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Afternoon Guys

Cheers Dan works a treat.

Made some progress on the planking, made a few errors but learnt from them. Starting to look good.

Cheers

Les
93D0BC9C-1F9E-48B0-BEC6-47FDDE48B4EE.jpeg

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Looks great. How are those bonded?

Looks like the bow os gonna need some pre-mudding.

Make sure to mask with the cabosil. Nasty bad for the lungs.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Evening Dan

I am going down the Aussie route ( Reefie ) V joint and then piped with resin mix. It seems this method is tried and tested so will give it a go....

I have been in contact with a really helpful guy at Gurit and he says it works !!!

Will hopefully finish the planking tomorrow. Will then check and aline any dodge areas before bonding.

The next process is laminating ..... this one I am not sure of.... My plan of attack is to give the hull one coat to strengthen the foam let it cure, sand a prepare and then wet on wet the remaining coats. this may require working until it is finished ( moon light and on )

The question is am I mad ???

Will post more photos soon.

Cheers

Les

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