LM18 medium sheer?

[Bob D]

Hello All,

Finally settled on a build after lurking around here for nearly a year. I had planned on a FS14LS +10% like VTJeff. I love the look and I’m still following his build closely (it’s excellent!) I decided to upsize so that I can confidently carry the rare 3 people and provide more separation between anglers. I have built several stitch-and-glue and strip-planked kayaks. This will be my first powered craft build. I live in the NC mountains and we just had what I hope is our last freeze so I will start building in earnest when my chosen motor comes back in stock. I will try to fight my gadget-loving instincts and build this light and simple. Here is my long list of initial intentions and questions. Any insight on these or overall ideas would be very appreciated.

1. Thinking of building a medium sheer, standard chine LM18. The low sheer looks sexy and should have less less windage while poling, but I am intimidated by the low freeboard. I’ll put in access holes in the cockpit bulkheads as shown on the standard sheer plans. The low sheer would leave no height for the holes. A medium height deck will also allow better fishing rod and stick anchor storage under the gunwales and a fuel tank under the forward deck. I am planning to split the difference between the standard and low sheer. I might be talked into just going with the low sheer and add front/rear hatches. I’m not as crazy about the look of the standard sheer.

2. If I have an access hole in the rear bulkhead I may just continue the cockpit sole to the transom so that I can slide things in and have a simple drain out the transom. Stopper the hole in use if the boat rides too low with people aboard. There may be some obvious problems with this that I haven’t considered. Don’t know if I would have to raise the sole to accomplish this. I’d rather not since I have read Jacques saying raising the sole affects stability. It would also make the access holes that much smaller.

3. I’d like to make the front cockpit bulkhead the same as the rear with an access hole and the sole continuing forward to the next frame. I think the cockpit sole extensions fore and aft could be lighter ply than the main floor. The fuel tank that comes with the motor is 3 gallon. Too small? So far the shortest fuel tank I’ve found is the Moeller 9 gallon portable. A little big for my needs but I wouldn’t have to completely fill it every time. I would just slide the tank out to fill and then secure it back under the deck. I definitely want the tank out of the way and out of the sun. I could also put the tank in back if balance allows.

4. Simple overall layout. No hatches. Stick anchor with a rope. Three popup cleats at the “corners.” No grab bar but cockpit sole reinforcements if I decide I can’t live without one. Low, temporary poling platform until I use it for a while to determine balance/height/necessity. Yeti Tundra 45 for passenger seating and possible casting platform. 20ft push pole mounted on deck. Light tackle with artificial lures. I can always bring provisions if someone wants to use live bait. Guessing 500 pounds loaded without crew.

5. Most commercial skiffs have a deck that overhangs the side panels by a fair amount. Often with a spray rail attached underneath the forward deck. Is this a good idea on this boat and what size overhang would be appropriate?

6. Here’s a big one. I’d like to use a tiller Tohatsu 4-stroke 20hp short shaft. Manual start with no electrical at all and no jack plate. Sucker only weighs 95 pounds! Everybody likes speed but it isn’t a priority for me. But will it still plane with up to 525 pounds of people on board? Normal crew <380 pounds. Will I run into mounting problems not having the adjustability of a jack plate? I’d rather avoid the weight/expense/rear set of the jack plate. Especially since it would further restrict tiller movement if I eventually mount a permanent poling platform.

Sorry for the novel and thanks to anyone who managed to read all of it. I figured I’d just pull off the bandaid.

Bob

[Jeff]

Welcome to our Builders Forum Bob D. Looks like you have put a lot of thought and planning into your future build!!! Jeff

[jacquesmm]

5. Most commercial skiffs have a deck that overhangs the side panels by a fair amount. Often with a spray rail attached underneath the forward deck. Is this a good idea on this boat and what size overhang would be appropriate?

You are probably looking at fiberglass hulls built with a rolled edge. It is an inexpensive way to produce a simple hull. A flat deck is dropped on that rolled edge and a rubrail added outside.
I see no advantage to it but you can copy that look by building up a thicker rubrail than what I show, with more epoxy glued layers.
I would not make it wider than 1.5".

[Bob D]

5. Most commercial skiffs have a deck that overhangs the side panels by a fair amount. Often with a spray rail attached underneath the forward deck. Is this a good idea on this boat and what size overhang would be appropriate?

You are probably looking at fiberglass hulls built with a rolled edge. It is an inexpensive way to produce a simple hull. A flat deck is dropped on that rolled edge and a rubrail added outside.
I see no advantage to it but you can copy that look by building up a thicker rubrail than what I show, with more epoxy glued layers.
I would not make it wider than 1.5".

I was thinking more along the lines of Harry Spears’ Evergladez hull. Supposedly for a drier ride. If it’s ineffective or a waste of time I won’t bother. I prefer the look without and it would add weight.

Thanks.

[TomW1]

Bob D welcome I also live in the NC mountains outside Bryson City, where are you at. Sounds like you want to pole up into the trout steams. Depending on the run from your launch point will depend on your motor HP. If you only have short runs the 20 will do you fine. I fish Fontana and need more to get to the trout streams. If I am wrong please correct me.

Tom

[Bob D]

Bob D welcome I also live in the NC mountains outside Bryson City, where are you at. Sounds like you want to pole up into the trout steams. Depending on the run from your launch point will depend on your motor HP. If you only have short runs the 20 will do you fine. I fish Fontana and need more to get to the trout streams. If I am wrong please correct me.

Tom

Good assumption but I didn’t give you enough information. We own part of a beach house down near Panacea, FL. On the Gulf coast - right in the armpit. For the last several years I’ve been restricted to wading or fishing from an ancient Boston Whaler. This should be a big upgrade.

Bryson City is beautiful. We live in NE Asheville. My kids and I spend a lot of time out your way. Lots of good mountain biking and kayaking.

[Jwhitakeriii]

Bob D welcome I also live in the NC mountains outside Bryson City, where are you at. Sounds like you want to pole up into the trout steams. Depending on the run from your launch point will depend on your motor HP. If you only have short runs the 20 will do you fine. I fish Fontana and need more to get to the trout streams. If I am wrong please correct me.

Tom

Good assumption but I didn’t give you enough information. We own part of a beach house down near Panacea, FL. On the Gulf coast - right in the armpit. For the last several years I’ve been restricted to wading or fishing from an ancient Boston Whaler. This should be a big upgrade.

Bryson City is beautiful. We live in NE Asheville. My kids and I spend a lot of time out your way. Lots of good mountain biking and kayaking.

Want to sell part of your part of the panacea beach house? We love fishing that area. I built the LM18 and fish it down there. I will say space under the hatches of the standard shear is limited so along with rod storage under the gunnels. I did rod storage under mine and had to put it pretty high so the reels didnt hang down and bang up the sole. Good luck with the build I cant wait to see it.