AD 14, question for Jacques

[bondo]

I agree with Cracker Larry. Justin, the costs are unthinkable but I want all the goods. $1,000 for a mast, boom and stays. $1,000 for a boom vang, boom kicker and mainsheet traveler. $1,000 for a mainsail. $1,000 for spinnaker, bow sprit and the necessary hardware. $500 for rudder hardware. You know I am not exaggerating about the costs but someone will suggest I can schooner rig the entire boat with a Wallmart patio set for under $50 and have attractive, casual seating for four. The windward sheeting thing looks awesome but it's $500. Das Boot has his rope type traveler dialed in and working great. I am thinking I should install the traveler track ($100) and start dead simple from there.

[gonandkarl]

Hallo Jaques,

I know one should not look at every detail before bulding the AD14.

But I have 2 questions while I am waiting for the plywood to arrive from France.
( Both questions have the hindsight that I want to build the boat on a shoestring budget. )

1. Is it possible to extend the wings on AD14 like I have seen on Georges Das Boot and also Gigster of South Africa ?
It looks to me more practical than the holdon bondo made on his boat. ( Stainless steel like he used I am sure is more
expensive than the plywood compartments which also serve as a backrest on the 2 mentioned boats. )

2. As I want to make the Chinese Sail rig is then the 2 degrees rake of the mast mentioned in the plans correct or should it be also 5 degrees like some forum members say. As I am quite good with a sewing machine the sail will be homemade. ( Could You also send me per email the info You sent stuff about an unstayed mast which might be preferable with the Chinese Sail. ) I want to try my luck at building the mast of glassfibre + 2 layers of carbon which some German describes so that an amateur should manage. As I cannot order Your Carbon Mast kit here in Europe it would be nice to be able to read at least the building instruction that You send out with that kit.

Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

[gonandkarl]

Hallo Bondo,
Sorry to have used Your threat, but as You are also quite cost conscious I thought my questions fit in there.
Greetings from Karl (Austria )

[jacquesmm]

What are those wings?

Mast rake: 2 degrees is a minimum, 5 is not unreasonable.
Solve the dilemma by making a mast step with slot in which you can move the mast step back and forth and block it with a wedge.

Rake for a chinese type lug is debatable: some like a lot of rake forward. That works better down wind. With too much rake back, the weight of the battens keep the sail from moving forward in light winds. The opposite applies to a good shape close winded that is why I show a very moderate amount of rake: in between two extremes.

[gk108]

What are those wings?

I think he's referring to the cockpit coaming instead of rails or straps.

[jacquesmm]

OK then, yes , you can raise the coaming.
I like them flush because you can slide back as a counterweight in a wind gust.

[gonandkarl]

Hi Jacques,

I have 4 questions about the keel shoe of the AD14 plan.

1. I see on the plan B264/8 it should have a R25 ( metric plan ) rounding at one end of the shoe. I assume it should be rounded near the transom which I think is on the left side of the plan ?!?!?! On most posted pictures of bondos ( my example of quality ) keelshoe I see no round end of it.

2. On the nesting plan there are 8 6 mm shoe plywood and 2 9 mm plywood pieces for the shoe laminate. Should I make the wedges for the curvature of the hull out of some of these plywood pieces ???

3. I would like to start laminating over Winter this keelshoe before I start assembling the hull. Is it advicable to laminate enough pieces until I reach the height of 65 mm straight and wait with the wedge pieces until I am ready to mount the keelshoe when the hull will be on its side ?

4. On plan B264/8 the slot for the centerboard starts at 181 mm from the left end; I cannot find a meaurement where the slot ends or should I calculate it from the length of the centerboard case ???

Greetings fro Karl ( Austria )

[jacquesmm]

Hi Jacques,

I have 4 questions about the keel shoe of the AD14 plan.

1. I see on the plan B264/8 it should have a R25 ( metric plan ) rounding at one end of the shoe. I assume it should be rounded near the transom which I think is on the left side of the plan ?!?!?! On most posted pictures of bondos ( my example of quality ) keelshoe I see no round end of it.

It's the leading edge, the front, bow side.

2. On the nesting plan there are 8 6 mm shoe plywood and 2 9 mm plywood pieces for the shoe laminate. Should I make the wedges for the curvature of the hull out of some of these plywood pieces ???

Yes, we show that in a blow up drawing, look to the left of the keel.

3. I would like to start laminating over Winter this keelshoe before I start assembling the hull. Is it advicable to laminate enough pieces until I reach the height of 65 mm straight and wait with the wedge pieces until I am ready to mount the keelshoe when the hull will be on its side ?

Yes, possible.

4. On plan B264/8 the slot for the centerboard starts at 181 mm from the left end; I cannot find a meaurement where the slot ends or should I calculate it from the length of the centerboard case ???

Greetings fro Karl ( Austria )

Well yes, the openings must match.

[gonandkarl]

Hallo Jacques,

Thank You for answering my questions about the keelshoe.

Unfortunately I have now a question about the centerboard trunk.

I have cut the the keel according to plan measurements of plan B264/8 and the fullsize plan fits perfectly on it .

The centerboard trunk measurements dont match the keel by quite a bit.
I looked for a measurement and found it in your ( jacquesmm archive center board case and centerboard on files 111 and 112) because the height of the centerboard ( 456 ) is missing on plan B264/8. The angle of board and case at the top is also different or has that to do with the angle of frame C and has to be different ? I doubt the most the measurements 406 and 356 of the case as well as 506 and 448.
Is it possible that some mm measurements are wrongly converted from feet and inches or should the trunk just be made to fit the keel and only the outside measurements are adhered to. I assume the cambers are outside the straight line measurements I see it at any rate so on the plan while the 25 mm battens between the trunksides must be taken off the outside measurement of the trunk.
I hope you can solve my confusion a bit before I start cutting the plywood for the trunk.
Greetings from Karl ( Austria )

[jacquesmm]

Is this what we are discussing?
The CB is yellow, the trunk outline is red. The pins are aligned and the bottom of the CB sticks out because it goes through the hull and through the keel. It is flush with the bottom of the keel shoe that we don't see int his drawing.
Yes, it is normal for the CB to be higher than the inside part of the CB trunk.