Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Thanks.

I received my primer today. It has been over two weeks since I glasses the outside hull. I have also fared the hull. I will be ready to prime the hull this weekend. I am finishing adding the spray rails tomorrow. I am using PVC for the spray rails and will glue and coat them with epoxy. Will I be able to prime this weekend or will I have to wait for two more weeks for the epoxy to cure? Since it is an Epoxy primer I was wondering if they would cure together? I live in Charlotte, NC and the weather has been 80's -90's and dry.

Thoughts?

THanks

Allow 3 days for the epoxy to cure. Then primer, 5-6 days before topcoat unless you get my weather up here in the mountains it was 44 at 6 o'clock this afternoon at 3000 ft.

Tom

Thanks.

I have sprayed the S3 primer, two coats. It worked like a charm. I am now waiting on more primer in the mail for a third coat.

How thick is to thick. Is more better? I could add one more coat. I have three thick coats now.

three coats is fine, just takes it longer to cure.

After it cures *fully*, it shrinks down a bit in thickness compared to when it first barely *seems* dry to the touch. I used three and four coats in different areas. Only sanded through in a few very small spots, mostly where it was a lighter three coats. That was with their previous primer product, but I think in these thickness aspects, that the new Yacht primer is very similar in the thickness it builds.

Also bear in mind that when you spray, if the needle and all were not perfect, and you've got some orange peel, that orange peel thickness is basically *sacrificial* since you will likely sand that off to get down to a smooth base of primer for the topcoat.

Yep I am seeing that orange peel issue. It is a true waste of time and money and sand paper. However it is fun to watch it take shape.

The primer seems to show me high and low areas. The color changes slightly once sanded. It is good stuff and so easy to work with. It makes a very fine dust though.

I also have sanded through in some of the areas where I new I had high spots. Dime size areas. Please say I don't have to re prime those areas.

Thanks

If you were painting yellow or red, you ought to reprime, simply because they do not have good coverage. I think overall that the primer is cheaper than the topcoat, so I'd touch it up with primer, but you will probably get satisfactory coverage with white paint. Just don't shoot the paint heavier there for the coverage or it may run on you. Add more coats to get better coverage, and be careful about going *heavy* in an area during a shoot. To which I must add the classic *don't ask me how I know...*. I think I put an extra two layers on the keel and chine areas.... primer and paint.

If those dime size areas broke through to fairing blend, I would rub a thin layer of epoxy into them, squeegee them to make sure they aren't *proud*, and then when cured, lightly sand 'em by hand with 120, then 220, just to give that exposed fairing a little extra fill/seal. I know a lot of the builders would not bother with that, but it is what I would do. I had put two coats of epoxy as a seal over all the fairing work, and then sanded that, as a final *sealing* fairing layer.