So, we put on a 3rd coat of primer rolling nad tipping 545 with 10% reduction...almost impossible to keep a wet edge over the 4’ side with chines n such...
I am planning to sand 320 grit or 220 grit for the topcoat; not sure. If I sand lower; it’ll burn through.
What are the grit recommends and will I have better luck with the topcoat?
Any other advice on wet edge? My friend helping is a little slow, but when I did it alone, I had same troubles...as soon as you lift the brush or go near a chine the brush unloads and you have to fix. We used a cup to clean the tipper, but still had troubles at chines.
Are people stopping at the chines and restarting?
If you look close at the picture you can see some shiny spots on the part of the boat firther away where wet edge wasn’t ideal with the primer.
Seaslug are you out there?
Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
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Re: Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
Also...the 545 ate my SW 4” foam roller.
I switched to a 3” paint roller. Drippy !?!}!#!~!{! mess.
I switched to a 3” paint roller. Drippy !?!}!#!~!{! mess.
Re: Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
Most epoxy primers I've come across (including the 545) dry very quick and will be very hard to get a good finish, but then you meed to sand anyway so don't worry about it. Sand with 320 for the topcoat. So long as you have the brush converter and correct thinner the topcoat should be easier.
Re: Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
I've worked with Awlgrip quite a bit and the primer dries as fast as you roll it on, and there is almost no way to get an even finish, or maintain a wet edge. The good part though is that it sands very easily the next day with 220 grit. I'm determined on my next build to spray the primer, because the little that I have sprayed comes out perfectly smooth with almost zero sanding. I found a 1/4" nap roller cover worked the best for rolling, and I work like a maniac trying to keep a wet edge and roll out imperfections as best I can to lessen the amount of sanding, but there's no way to get it smooth, so put it on thick, rolling multiple coats one after another, just allowing it to set up enough to roll without damaging the coat you're going over. It's called high build primer, and that's how I use it. put it on heavy, and than sand most of it off to get it smooth. It definitely wastes a ton of primer, but unless you're spraying that's the nature of the beast. Great stuff though. Good luck on future priming. Mike
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Re: Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
I’m gonna sand with 320.
Is the topcoat any easier?
Is the topcoat any easier?
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Re: Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
Are you tipping just as practice for when the topcoat comes? Most folks I know just roll on 2-3 coats (depending on how thin you're reducing it), let "dry", and sand it away.
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Re: Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
Ohhh...in re-reading...it's 545...your topcoat primer.
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Re: Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
We were trying to get a bit of practice in, but the stuff was so watery, it didn't roll well either. It seems like the stuff is really meant to be sprayed, but some marketing genius said we need a brush formulation.
I am going to sand it with 320 today, maybe. Kids car had a caliper seize yesterday, so I'm an auto mechanic first.
I am going to sand it with 320 today, maybe. Kids car had a caliper seize yesterday, so I'm an auto mechanic first.
Re: Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
Both the primer and the top coat are much thinner than any other paint that I've used, so you're correct, spraying would be the best way to go, but not everyone has the equipment, or a good place to spray, so rolling and tipping is how most people use the paint. The top coat is rolled on with a foam roller in a very thin and even film, so thin that it's semi transparent, giving the impression you'll never get good enough coverage, but I've found the second coat usuaslly covers pretty well, a third coat being ideal. The key is to roll it on very thin, only working a maximum of 24" along the hull before going back and tipping. You need to use a high quality natural bristle brush, no synthetic or cheapo chip brush, and most importantly on vertical surfaces, always tip vertically, not horizontally, because tipping sideways will result in sags. Only tip one time, very lightly, than leave it alone. It may look like there are brush strokes, but it will flow out as it cures. The first coat never looks good, but after a light sanding with 220 or320 grit, the second coat evens out incredibly well. A large flat surface is easiest to paint, whereas chines, hardware, etc. create spots that can form drips and runs, and pooling of paint. If you see an especially egregious run, sag, or whatever, you can go back and hit it with the brush to try and make for less sanding, but be careful of creating more of a mess if the paint has already set up too much. One thing I've found is it has such a good high gloss shine, no one notices some imperfections on the sides of the boat when it's done. Make sure to mix enough paint to cover whatever you are painting so you don't need to mix more mid way, unless you have a helper mixing and you do not have to stop somewhere. So you are aware, leftover mixed paint will be fine to use the following day, sometimes even 2 days later if refrigerated in a closed container. Good luck. Mike
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Re: Rolling and tipping Awlgrip
Thanks for the tip on chilling the mixed paint!
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