Heat and epoxy

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silentneko
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by silentneko »

I'm doing it in my garage. I heat by waving a heat gun over the area for a bit until it's warmed, then roll on the resin. As it cools over the next 3-5 minutes it sucks in the resin to the point where if it wasn't a darker color, I would think it is dry. When I rolled on a neat coat before on the select pine I'm using it would just kinda sit on top and stay shiny. I like the heat method a lot.
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TomW1
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by TomW1 »

Silentko I missed your post as I had just responded to a similar one. Go ahead and put all your layers of fiberglass on using Silver tip epoxy. Then slowly take it up to 145 hold for 30 minutes and slowly let it return it to room temperature. See my other post for more details.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

joe2700
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by joe2700 »

TomW1 wrote: Mon Apr 22, 2019 10:59 pm Silentko I missed your post as I had just responded to a similar one. Go ahead and put all your layers of fiberglass on using Silver tip epoxy. Then slowly take it up to 145 hold for 30 minutes and slowly let it return it to room temperature. See my other post for more details.

Tom
I think you misread silentneko's question, they were talking about neat coats of epoxy on wood. I just mentioned I also use dropping temperature when I'm applying fiberglass to prevent bubbles.

Could you share where you are getting the 145°F for 30 minutes for post curing silvertip epoxy? I couldn't find where they specify the post cure temp. The closest I found was gel magic in the same line of products which says "post cure at 140°F for 2 hours." Gel magic has higher heat deflection temperature and maximum service temperature though, so I'd be surprised if you needed a higher temp to post cure silvertip epoxy than gel magic.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1000/ ... 0272102228

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OrangeQuest
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by OrangeQuest »

silentneko wrote: Mon Apr 22, 2019 6:55 pm I'm doing it in my garage. I heat by waving a heat gun over the area for a bit until it's warmed, then roll on the resin. As it cools over the next 3-5 minutes it sucks in the resin to the point where if it wasn't a darker color, I would think it is dry. When I rolled on a neat coat before on the select pine I'm using it would just kinda sit on top and stay shiny. I like the heat method a lot.
I understand what you are doing and also know what you mean when you say it is shiny without the heat. The whole falling temp thing seems to be a great Idea. I like to do the neat coat and then not wait to long to do the glass work so it sounds like it shortens that wait time. It was one of the reasons I was using fast hardener for neat coat and medium for the glass work. I am getting ready to redo my foredeck and will "play" with this method to see if it helps me speed things up a little.
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piperdown
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by piperdown »

silentneko wrote: Mon Apr 22, 2019 6:55 pm I'm doing it in my garage. I heat by waving a heat gun over the area for a bit until it's warmed, then roll on the resin. As it cools over the next 3-5 minutes it sucks in the resin to the point where if it wasn't a darker color, I would think it is dry. When I rolled on a neat coat before on the select pine I'm using it would just kinda sit on top and stay shiny. I like the heat method a lot.

That's an interesting idea. I've been using select pine myself and notice the difference between the select pine (shiny layer) versus the ply that just soaks it in.
I might try heating it up a bit when I'm getting ready to seal it, followed by fiberglassing it after waiting about 30 mins for it to become tacky.
Eric (aka, piperdown)

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TomW1
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by TomW1 »

joe2700 wrote: Mon Apr 22, 2019 11:38 pm
TomW1 wrote: Mon Apr 22, 2019 10:59 pm Silentko I missed your post as I had just responded to a similar one. Go ahead and put all your layers of fiberglass on using Silver tip epoxy. Then slowly take it up to 145 hold for 30 minutes and slowly let it return it to room temperature. See my other post for more details.

Tom
I think you misread silentneko's question, they were talking about neat coats of epoxy on wood. I just mentioned I also use dropping temperature when I'm applying fiberglass to prevent bubbles.

Could you share where you are getting the 145°F for 30 minutes for post curing silvertip epoxy? I couldn't find where they specify the post cure temp. The closest I found was gel magic in the same line of products which says "post cure at 140°F for 2 hours." Gel magic has higher heat deflection temperature and maximum service temperature though, so I'd be surprised if you needed a higher temp to post cure silvertip epoxy than gel magic.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1000/ ... 0272102228
The 145 for 30 minutes was on a technical work sheet for post curing by the makers of Silver-Tip back in 2005 or there abouts.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

fallguy1000
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by fallguy1000 »

My post cure instruction for extra slow Silvertip (120 min) is 2 hours at 145F.

We will go no heat for the first days and expect sun temps in the low hundreds. We will be able to go i side and monitor progress.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

TomW1
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by TomW1 »

fallguy1000 wrote: Tue Apr 23, 2019 2:34 pm My post cure instruction for extra slow Silvertip (120 min) is 2 hours at 145F.

We will go no heat for the first days and expect sun temps in the low hundreds. We will be able to go i side and monitor progress.
Fallguy I was in at the beginning of there testing so the range was established from 30 minutes to 2hrs depending on the speed one took the heat up and back down. The heat curves for the lower heat was slower, while the faster slightly higher heat took less time to get there. My background has a little bit of chemical engineering in it. So was able to follow with there testing.

With the new technology I would go with your numbers. Get the heat up over an hour to 145 hold it for 2 hours and slowly let it reduce to room temp. When I say slowly I mean over 4-6 hours, not just turning off the heaters all at once but slowly reducing the heat.

Let's see this is 2019, if you go back 12 or 15 years you will find a discussion between Joel who Jeff replaced, myself, Jacques, Cracker Larry and a couple of builders concerned about the heat in S. Fla. and there hulls.

That is all I have, my printed docs went up when my house burned down 5 years ago and I can't find them on the Silver-Tip website.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

fallguy1000
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by fallguy1000 »

My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
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Re: Heat and epoxy

Post by fallguy1000 »

Lots of expertise in that article.

Now, I have to bunk my whole boat and avoid it becoming rubbery.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

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