Preliminary Fairing

[Dan_Smullen]

Ooofff...

That’s a lot of work.

I’m not complaining, but definitely didn’t have an appreciation for the subtleties involved. I’m gearing up this week with quantity of different/better paper (including 40 grit ), and a Durablock. Also, going to try some Facebook advice and use guide coat early in the process.

Breaking up the time by shaping reverse chines and spray rails. Also an educational experience.

[Jeff]

You are almost thereDan!!! Hang in there, Jeff

[VT_Jeff]

I’m not complaining.....

Feel free to un-grit those teeth any time now, Dan.

[fallguy1000]

I’m not complaining.....

Feel free to un-grit those teeth any time now, Dan.

I have been jaw clamping so fargin much lately, it hurts to open.

[Dan_Smullen]

You are almost thereDan!!! Hang in there, Jeff

I appreciate the encouragement, but I’m in good shape!

Guide powder, Durablock and some PSA backed 40 grit was a game changer!

Found them at a auto body supply shop here in town.

[fallguy1000]

Go through a sanding progression. You don't primer over 40 grit.

[Jaysen]

Go through a sanding progression. You don't primer over 40 grit.

You do if you accept the limits of that finish. If you are 100% going to be beating the fecal matter out of your boat there no point in going over 80. Anyplace. For any reason. The best decision I made was to stop sanding and put the paint on. I have at least one section that is 40g "finished" and it looks just as good as the 220g after being dragged up a beach.

[VT_Jeff]

Guide powder, Durablock and some PSA backed 40 grit was a game changer!

Dan,

I've seen people talk about using guide powder and I do have a bottle of graphite but have not figured out a good way to get it applied in a way that makes it easy to spot the lows, seems to just make a big mess that moves around when I sand. Can you describe your process a bit? I've been using spray paint which has it's own challenges.

[fallguy1000]

Carbon black is rubbed on the hull like wax, without the waxy finish. Then you longboard sand and the low spots turn black as the powder is not removed and in fact builds in the low spots.

Here, you can see after sanding that we had a lot of waviness. We measured the waves and they were all 0.002" deep max, which is less than a couple coats of paint.

Here is post paint, and after more longboard sanding. More guide powder was not done. This boat is far from perfect, but not too bad.

[Dan_Smullen]

Dan,

Can you describe your process a bit? I've been using spray paint which has it's own challenges.

I'll do the best I can, but keep in mind, it's my first day so to speak. I found this at a local auto body supply shop.


After some time of applying putty and sanding with both a pneumatic inline file and home made sanding board with 60 grit, I sprayed this on lightly as described in the directions, and then hit with 40 grit on the Durablock. You can see one or two darker spots which are the remaining guide powder, but not much. I'm going to hit it with 80, check with guide powder again, and then hopefully walk away until it's time to prime. Will blend in the edges when I fair the sides.


I've learned, for initial fairing, just jump in with the 40 grit, which is unheard of in the wood working business. It was an emotional hurdle I had to get over personally.

It was also recommended i watch a few of these videos, which although auto-centric, were helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cwb72qRT8hQ