Pool paint on sole under water-Paint review

[landlockedinmi]

So.....I purchased Klass Kote 2 part epoxy paint to paint the inside of my sc-16. It is a pool paint that the mfg'er says is good for fiberglass surfaces and a long list of others.

I prepped by sanding the System 3 lpu. Went down to the glass where it had crazed and blistered due to being submerged for weeks at a time. Removed some fairing that was brittle and some epoxy that was uv damaged. Coated any exposed glass/epoxy with coat of marinepoxy sold here. Let cure. Faired 2 or 3 spots w/ quickfare.

I am a huge fan of the S3 lpu- it is not spec'ed for under water exposure and I was searching for a paint that was made to be submerged. The Klass Kote does not need a primer according to the mfg'er.

The Klass Kote uses a very strong voc reducer (thinner) or you can use lacquer thinner formulated for epoxy (whatever that is...). So for 1 gallon and a pint of reducer it was $210 including shipping. Cheap it ain't.

Applied 1st coat to sole and seat tops with S3 anti skid mixed in. Temp a balmy Michigan 55 degrees and avg humidity. Started painting in attached garage. I used the one leftover roller I had from BB. It rolled nicely but I probably need more reducer as it sets up fast. Significant other returns from store and says "holy hell the entire house reeks! " After removing voc respirator, the smell is very strong. Doors opened, temp plummets but domestic harmony approaches equilibrium, not restored but close enough. The paint itself smells very strong and the reducer is just wicked.

After 10 mins remove tape from taped off sole and seat tops. Looking good. Because this sets up quick you can re-coat quick too. But now the boat is outside so we are dealing with bugs and shrapnel from trees as it is blowin'. Also very bright sunshine, which effectively makes it impossible to see what has been painted and what hasn't unless it is an obvious dark spot. BUT it is a pool paint so this should be exactly the conditions one would paint a pool in..right? At least in MI. You should recoat within 24 hours.

So now I have no rollers that I trust to not breakdown in this mix of very potent epoxy and reducer so brushing it is with a 3 inch natural brush.
This takes about 90 mins. Even with additional reducer, this sets up fast in cool weather and in direct sun. Let it sit for 2 hours, temps go to mid 40's, bring the boat back in overnight. This time there is virtually no scent. Which tells me the voc's are very v.

Rolled it back out yesterday for final coat. I did manage to hit the rough sawn cedar trim on the garage taking it out yesterday before final coat. The paint adheres very well according to that test and even though it cured in cool weather for about 18 hours, the cedar trim on the garage was splintered off the corner but the paint was only marred a bit, however it was hard to see after another coat. Impressive. There are just a few bugs stuck in the paint and some bristles. Clean it up and have at it again. Very hard to keep a wet edge again. But a bit better than last time. Experience or more reducer? Who knows.

Final results as of this morning are very good. I dont see drips or sags and just a few brush marks.

So bottom line: The System 3 LPU is much easier to work with and it does not need the nasty reducer. It lays down better using roll and tip. I would venture that if you are an experienced painter you can get a great finish w/ the Klass Kote, if you are not then proceed with caution because you will need to be sharp to stay on top of it.

If this holds up under water like they say (it is designed for pools so it had better), it is a good answer for a paint that is not ablative and will be submerged. I will post some pics if our governor continues to believe that cutting grass is non-essential.