To clarify, 1 layer of glass over plywood. Plans don't specify any glass over ply. I would use the NidaPlast Panels as they come.cape_fisherman wrote: ↑Sat Mar 20, 2021 4:08 pm That's a fine decision...but I have to wonder...
You said that you don't want the "adventure" of glassing the panels, but then go on to say that you'd add another layer of glass to the panels. I'm curious why you would pay that much more money just to spend even more on it? "To me" it makes more sense to spend half the money on the panel & simply glass it. But that's me. Oh...and you don't have to glass the entire 4x8 panel. Cut your pattern first, and then glass. That way you aren't glassing the wasted pieces.
Not to worry...I'm just thinking out loud.
The honeycomb is certainly the way to go. A friend of mine has used 3", glassed with two layers of 1700 each side, over a 16' unsupported span in the salon of a sportfisher. Worked fine, and helped suppress the sound of the engine room below.
I have not explored honeycomb laminating very much. My impressions was that you need a vacuum set-up to make parts. I will look into this further because it looks like NidaPlast H8PP, sold here, seems like it is designed to be laminated just like plywood. Nida-Core has many products. You have to pay attention to the name/model/specification for the correct procedure for laminating. I know how to work with plywood and epoxy. Never tried honeycombs. If it is just like ply, I'm in.
The sole spans about 20" between stringers on the HB16. The core thickness to span 20" is what is important here. It doesn't need to be thick enough to span 8 feet. I have a working knowledge of composite structures especially what you can and cannot do. I understand hard points, edge treatments, point loads, spans, etc. What I don't know is if the sole of the HB16 is critical to the overall hull strength. If so, is the honeycomb panel is strong enough to do the job.