I am about to order plans for a PH18 to build a bass boat. I have Nidacore already, an hope to use it instead of plywood. I have searched the posts and see that a scedule is supplied for using foam instead of wood, would that be the same schedule to use for 1/2" Nidacore on sides and hull?
Mark
Ontario, Canada
Lay up schedule for Nidacore
Lay up schedule for Nidacore
My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !
Re: Lay up schedule for Nidacore
Mark you won't be able to use your nidacore in the hull as it does not bend enough to make the curves necessary. You will be able to use it for all the inside structure and the decks. You will need to come to some kind of and agreement with Joel or Jacques on the lamination schedule as it is not included with the plans on small boats for foam/nidacore like the PH18.
Tom
Tom
Good fishing and red skys at night sailors delight
C17ccx, Mirror Dinghy
C17ccx, Mirror Dinghy
Re: Lay up schedule for Nidacore
Thanks Tom.
Nidacore has a process for bends, including compound bends, scoring or removing "tracks" at predetermined intervals is the ticket. For example, it can be as simple as "skill saw" cuts (1/8" wide) every 3 inches both ways at 50% - 75% depth, and then once you have the form, remaining spaces are filled with lighweight filler same as fillets material. Of course, if you get it perfect, you have no gaps.....
For similiar sized boats/hull designs, 3 layers of 1708 with ployester is fine, but I am not sure what can be saved with the honeycomb sandwhich and epoxy resin, this is what I am seeking.
Thanks again Tom, next beer on me...next time you are near Markham , ON
Cheers
Mark
Nidacore has a process for bends, including compound bends, scoring or removing "tracks" at predetermined intervals is the ticket. For example, it can be as simple as "skill saw" cuts (1/8" wide) every 3 inches both ways at 50% - 75% depth, and then once you have the form, remaining spaces are filled with lighweight filler same as fillets material. Of course, if you get it perfect, you have no gaps.....
For similiar sized boats/hull designs, 3 layers of 1708 with ployester is fine, but I am not sure what can be saved with the honeycomb sandwhich and epoxy resin, this is what I am seeking.
Thanks again Tom, next beer on me...next time you are near Markham , ON
Cheers
Mark
My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !
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Re: Lay up schedule for Nidacore
I have used a lot of Nida-core and it would be one of the last choices for a one-off hull core materiel if I had a choice.
It will have a lot of little flat spots because of the way its manufactured (small squares of honeycomb combined to form the large panel), so this creates more fairing work. Is it uses more resin vs foam core in this case. This polyester scrim soaks up resin, then if your lucky it will not let resin soak through and fill the honey comb.
It also will sag more between molds, you may need extra molds. Cutting the raw core accurately is almost impossible.
I once started a one off kayak from nida-core. I scrapped the project when i got the the lamination of the outside. it was just too sloppy to work with, plus it would end up weighing a lot more due to the extra epoxy in the fairing and what the scrim soaks up.
I do like to use nida core for flat parts. I make/buy a full size panel with glass already on each side and cut my frames/deck/sole parts from it - much easier to make and clean to cut.
It will have a lot of little flat spots because of the way its manufactured (small squares of honeycomb combined to form the large panel), so this creates more fairing work. Is it uses more resin vs foam core in this case. This polyester scrim soaks up resin, then if your lucky it will not let resin soak through and fill the honey comb.
It also will sag more between molds, you may need extra molds. Cutting the raw core accurately is almost impossible.
I once started a one off kayak from nida-core. I scrapped the project when i got the the lamination of the outside. it was just too sloppy to work with, plus it would end up weighing a lot more due to the extra epoxy in the fairing and what the scrim soaks up.
I do like to use nida core for flat parts. I make/buy a full size panel with glass already on each side and cut my frames/deck/sole parts from it - much easier to make and clean to cut.
Re: Lay up schedule for Nidacore
From the designer: ditto what Joel writes.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: Lay up schedule for Nidacore
Thank you gents!
This certainly makes sense. I will go with the foam for all but flat parts.
I'll post progress and pictures once underway on the board.
Cheers,
Mark
This certainly makes sense. I will go with the foam for all but flat parts.
I'll post progress and pictures once underway on the board.
Cheers,
Mark
My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !
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