Door material?

[fallguy1000]

I am sorta looking for input on this door.

The surrounding walls are heavy 3/4" plywood to help with roof loads. I cutout a 3/4" panel 2'x6'. The cutaway panel was 27 pounds.

I can make an ultralight core door, but it takes more epoxy. If I build it with a single layer of 12 oz glass; it'd be a little flimsy and misshapen easily. It would weigh like 6 pounds plus require decoring and recoring with like a pound or two of epoxy and glass. If I double the glass; double the weight; more like 12 pounds, but wouldn't twist outta shape.

But I have other panels to build.

Is there any half inch lightweight cores that are stable at 2'x6'?

Richard?

[fallguy1000]

[Evan_Gatehouse]

Hi,

Both cabin and head doors on my 40' cat were 3/8" core Nomex with 200 gm/m2 carbon on each side. In other words very light. They weren't flimsy or distorted.

I don't think your 12 oz with distort or be as flimsy as you think. You could always glass a few foam ribs to the inside to stiffen it up and minimise epoxy use

[fallguy1000]

Hi,

Both cabin and head doors on my 40' cat were 3/8" core Nomex with 200 gm/m2 carbon on each side. In other words very light. They weren't flimsy or distorted.

I don't think your 12 oz with distort or be as flimsy as you think. You could always glass a few foam ribs to the inside to stiffen it up and minimise epoxy use

Can I do carbon on 12mm corecell? I realize the mismatch, but for a door? It'd look really, really cool.

[Netpackrat]

Can I do carbon on 12mm corecell? I realize the mismatch, but for a door? It'd look really, really cool.

If you are just going for a look, and don't actually need the added strength of carbon, it looks like you can get regular fiberglass cloth dyed in a few colors.

[fallguy1000]

Can I do carbon on 12mm corecell? I realize the mismatch, but for a door? It'd look really, really cool.

If you are just going for a look, and don't actually need the added strength of carbon, it looks like you can get regular fiberglass cloth dyed in a few colors.

Wife said no fancy door. So I might build it 12 oz each side.

[Aripeka Angler]

That door opening would look cool with a 2x3 slotted trim wrapping the top and sides. Slot the trim 3/4” x 3/4” deep. Would slide around the opening giving it a fine finished look. If it were me, I’d build a cypress, mahogany or fir framed shaker style door with a dadoed in marine ply 1/4” panel. Skip the glass, put on 2 coats of primer and 2 or 3 coats of your inside paint. Light as a feather and will last forever. Also no fairing.
If you lived down close by, I’d donate the door to the cause...

[fallguy1000]

That door opening would look cool with a 2x3 slotted trim wrapping the top and sides. Slot the trim 3/4” x 3/4” deep. Would slide around the opening giving it a fine finished look. If it were me, I’d build a cypress, mahogany or fir framed shaker style door with a dadoed in marine ply 1/4” panel. Skip the glass, put on 2 coats of primer and 2 or 3 coats of your inside paint. Light as a feather and will last forever. Also no fairing.
If you lived down close by, I’d donate the door to the cause...

So, two questions.

It needs stops. Which way are you layin the 2x3? I have 2x in oak. Assuming the 1.5" gets the dado and the frame juts out into the room 2.5"-.75" or 7/8 each side. Then I have room for say 1/2" stops to apply to the bathroom side.

For a shaker style, how are you joining the corners. About all I have here is kreg jig. I might be able to cover them..might have pocket hole covers. You just dado all the parts like 3/8" deep? There would be holes to fill. Bit thixo can fix that.

I kinda like the no epoxy idea. Need a break from it.

[Aripeka Angler]

Want me to chicken scratch you something or do it in auto cad tomorrow?

[fallguy1000]

Want me to chicken scratch you something or do it in auto cad tomorrow?

Chicken is all I need. Thanks!