I bought two 3/4" panels of King Starboard ST.
Man, is it heavy. Each panel weighs 120 pounds.
I think the faceframes could have been made from 1/2", but the manufacturer was worried about doors warping at 1/2".
Yesterday, I made a couple door rips at 22 1/4" plus and got the panels down to manageable weights at 60 pounds. Ray helped me, or some denting would have occurred.
The stuff cuts much like wood. One side has a plastic anti-mar surface. I ran it through the joiner and it joints okay, but is really a bit touchy; so super light cuts and razor sharp blades are important.
I am trying to determine a glue that works.
I plan some trial and error, but I think weld-mount might work. Otherwise chem-set 6105 has been reviewed ro work. These two part glues are really expensive, though, and cure times are fast, so I will have to be really ready to glue and probably use 4-8 tips.
I wish Aripeka Angler hadn't left because he might have shed some light on all of this business. Stay tuned. I'll see what I can offer.
I ripped the two 22.25"+ panels and then proceeded with a 7" rip for the upper cabinet upper rail. Then I decided to build all the face frame stiles from 3" material, but perhaps needed to scribe a wider piece on the left side of the lowers, so ripped some at 3.5". Then I ripped a few stile pieces at 3.125" and finally some rail stock at 1.625".
Today, I am sort of out of space for cabinet frame building, so I need to do some glue ups for the tops and tables. Then maybe this weekend, I will attempt to build the faceframes.
If anyone gets this far, I am looking to inset all the doors to save some weight. I need some inset hinges in 316 stainless and some ?magnetic latches?. If anyone has any ideas, let me know.
King Starboard ST
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Re: King Starboard ST
FG, just reach out to Aripeka Angler!! He is still around!! Jeff
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Re: King Starboard ST
I called Weld Mount Adhesives and was told to use their at880 system for bonding.
It set me back about $250 for the adhesives, tips and gun. Ouch. But supposed to hold it.
All for sale on 12voltwarehouse.com
At880 glue 3x40
At388 gun. 80
At858 tips 2x17
Shipping 12$
Gonna see if the frames will glue to the cleats, but I plan to use some screws and cup washers as well.
It set me back about $250 for the adhesives, tips and gun. Ouch. But supposed to hold it.
All for sale on 12voltwarehouse.com
At880 glue 3x40
At388 gun. 80
At858 tips 2x17
Shipping 12$
Gonna see if the frames will glue to the cleats, but I plan to use some screws and cup washers as well.
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Re: King Starboard ST
Having some second thoughts now.
Mighta been easier to use wood and just paint it all..
The starboard probably won't support the spans of the top; neither will the coosa. So either I make the rails thicker on the top or?
Probably can't cuz want a drawer left lower cab.
Mighta been easier to use wood and just paint it all..
The starboard probably won't support the spans of the top; neither will the coosa. So either I make the rails thicker on the top or?
Probably can't cuz want a drawer left lower cab.
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Re: King Starboard ST
Maybe a glassed coosa will work at 1".
Ugh.
Maybe the starboard will self support at 1.5"; doubt it. The span max is 22"
Ugh.
Maybe the starboard will self support at 1.5"; doubt it. The span max is 22"
- BrianC
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Re: King Starboard ST
How about backing the Starboard with ply along the top edge?
SK14 completed ——— GV15 under construction
"...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”
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— The Wind in the Willows — Kenneth Grahame
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Re: King Starboard ST
Yeah, something is needed to support the hardwood sapele top and screw it from underneath as well. I leaned the starboard rips on the wall yesterday and they take the shape left in.. But you can't glue it too easily, so maybe a hardwood cleat, then I can screw either direction to the starboard face and pull or up into the wooden countertop..
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