Venting the console/electronics enclosure

[fallguy1000]

Respectfully, I underthunk it. Wish u were right Jaysen.

All the heat is headed here to this 3" space above the expensive displays.

The heat sources include the boiler, the wster heater, the autopilot pump, the boiler exhaust and thru hull, and the displays and autopump processer.

So, let's say the console heats up to 130, that is too hot for the displays. Even an iphone will temp off. Then at night, when outside air cools, the inside air is hot and the outside air will condense on the vents I suppose. The reverse would never occur. So maybe louvers could work.

[fallguy1000]

I do have an ambient outlet that goes into the bathroom, but sources like the water heater, autopilot pump, boilet exhaust and its fitting will not make it over there.

A muffin fan in front of the outlet may help.

An air conditioner might be needed here and I could pull air from the case?

[Jaysen]

Ah! That’s easy. A powered dorade vent is what you want. Here’s one from Amazon.

nicro Stainless Steel Day/Night Plus Vent, 3" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E23IEQ/re ... CJ4F4PDDMM

They work passively letting hot air out. The base shape keeps direct wet out ensuring that airborne humidity is on par with ambient humidity (reduces condensation a bit). The one I linked is solar but you can get wired as well.

one of these keeps our sailboat cool and oder free. I think you might want more than one or get a bigger one.

[fallguy1000]

Ah! That’s easy. A powered dorade vent is what you want. Here’s one from Amazon.

nicro Stainless Steel Day/Night Plus Vent, 3" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E23IEQ/re ... CJ4F4PDDMM

They work passively letting hot air out. The base shape keeps direct wet out ensuring that airborne humidity is on par with ambient humidity (reduces condensation a bit). The one I linked is solar but you can get wired as well.

one of these keeps our sailboat cool and oder free. I think you might want more than one or get a bigger one.

I can't install anything solar as the top of the helm is covered. And, running air out of the console means air comes in..from the exterior.

[Jaysen]

That’s the style I use. You can get them direct wired. I would use a thermistor to control the on/off cycle.

You need to ensure air turnover. The heat doesn’t just vanish without turn over unless you provide a sink for it (cooling system). It is MUCH simpler to just allow for air turnover.

Easiest way is dual dorades. One for air in (should low) and one for air out (high location). Louvres on the bottom footwell with standard dorade on top. Think of it like venting a roof.

[OrangeQuest]

Bilge exhaust fan is fairly cheap and easy to install in duct work 3" or 4" diameter. Then a dryer exhaust vent cover to keep anything from coming down the opening. Vent the console like you would vent a bilge, with a fresh air intake and exhaust. Cleaver use of a "Y" connection for the water heater/boiler exhaust so the air moving across Y will cause a negative pressure where the heated exhaust meets and help pull the exhaust out. When there is no heated exhaust the fan will continue to pull heat/air through the duct work so no condensation build up. That would include any heat build up from the electronic equip. while in use. Using negative pressure to pull the exhaust through the exhaust plumbing will ensure no carbon dioxide build up from the water heater/boiler.

Reason you would use a Y connection is so hot exhaust gases do not go through the fan assembly (plastic).

[fallguy1000]

Bilge exhaust fan is fairly cheap and easy to install in duct work 3" or 4" diameter. Then a dryer exhaust vent cover to keep anything from coming down the opening. Vent the console like you would vent a bilge, with a fresh air intake and exhaust. Cleaver use of a "Y" connection for the water heater/boiler exhaust so the air moving across Y will cause a negative pressure where the heated exhaust meets and help pull the exhaust out. When there is no heated exhaust the fan will continue to pull heat/air through the duct work so no condensation build up. That would include any heat build up from the electronic equip. while in use. Using negative pressure to pull the exhaust through the exhaust plumbing will ensure no carbon dioxide build up from the water heater/boiler.

Reason you would use a Y connection is so hot exhaust gases do not go through the fan assembly (plastic).

Well, this is perhaps the right direction. But I can't fiddle with the boiler exhaust directly since the boat is surveyed and there are a ton of rules around it.

On balance, I think a simple fan, like a bilge blower is the way to go, although a bilge blower might be too much and the thing might run a lot.

The air intake is still my hesitation. Damp, salty air running thru an electronics enclosure seems like a no-no. So, I think it needs to be limited at least. The door and windows on the boat are fairly tight, but there are air sources.

Gonna start looking for some vent fan.

[fallguy1000]

I can put a filter over this one and perhaps a rain cover can be homemade from fiberglass.

https://www.coolerguys.com/collections/ ... controller

[cape man]

Put the fan on the intake opening, and put that opening inside the door down low to minimize exposure to the elements. Looks like it will fit in the lower opening just inside the door. Vent it at the top on the starboard side of the helm station with a louvered vent with a large clam shell or fiberglass overhang. Assuming the compartment is fairly tight, pushing air in from the cabin will work just as well as pulling it out and your fan will be more protected. No way to totally avoid moisture on a boat, so just go for bringing in the cleanest air as possible.

[fallguy1000]

Leaning toward here. The spec on the exhaust tube is no openings for 20". Then, as mentioned, just pull air from inside the cabin. The last fan linked has a probe and thermistor I can put the probe at the top of the console and maybe set it for ?120F.