CH16 - Turbo Cayuco: The Next Phase
The outboard trim is already at the extreme for bringing down the bow. I guess I could somehow angle the motor bracket to further increase propeller angle. That said, the raised bow is not nearly as high when I carry my wife and the dog. The vast majority of my paddling is done with other people in the canoe. In the case of the video, I wanted footage from an outsider's point of view, so my wife stayed on shore while I did a couple of laps for the camera. But even with the bow down and more beam on the water due to a better balanced load, it still feels fairly unstable when compared to just plain paddling without the outboard motor.
Fairing and painting
Yesterday I got some Quikfair to start the fairing process. I am now in the process of getting any tools and accesories required to do this. I have a question for Chenoa, Hiawatha and CC/NC builders:
Did you use a fairing board? I am thinking that because the Chenoa hull does not have big flat area with no compund curves like the FS or FL's, the actual usefulness of a fairing board may be limited. Then again this is my first boat and I'm the first to acknowledge my ignorance in boatbuilding.
Second question: Any adverse effects in working with Quikfair at temps between 4C (39F) to 7C (45F). I would expect longer curing and pot times . Longer pot life can be a plus for a newbie like me. I am more concerned about the thing never curing or curing with weak molecular bonding. What is the minimum temperature you'd recommend for working with Quikfair?
PS. I'm also contemplating adding flotation chambers in the bow and stern.
Did you use a fairing board? I am thinking that because the Chenoa hull does not have big flat area with no compund curves like the FS or FL's, the actual usefulness of a fairing board may be limited. Then again this is my first boat and I'm the first to acknowledge my ignorance in boatbuilding.
Second question: Any adverse effects in working with Quikfair at temps between 4C (39F) to 7C (45F). I would expect longer curing and pot times . Longer pot life can be a plus for a newbie like me. I am more concerned about the thing never curing or curing with weak molecular bonding. What is the minimum temperature you'd recommend for working with Quikfair?
PS. I'm also contemplating adding flotation chambers in the bow and stern.
- littlesandy
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On my ch14, I started to build me a long board, but in the end I thought the same thing you are - there is not enought "flat" on the hull to really work a 3'-4' longboard...Did you use a fairing board? I am thinking that because the Chenoa hull does not have big flat area with no compund curves like the FS or FL's, the actual usefulness of a fairing board may be limited. Then again this is my first boat and I'm the first to acknowledge my ignorance in boatbuilding.
I used a 1/3 sheet hand block for about 50% of my hull sanding... another 30% with a 5" RO, and the rest with a "mini-block" - 1/6 sheet sanding block, about 2" wide and 6" - 8" long I used the mini block a lot on the inside near the ends... Also, when hand sanding, the 100 seemed to cut the blended filler fairing mix better/quicker than the 60 grit I used in the begining.
Fishing from a paddle boat...
Tom, you're welcome. Jerry, got it. No long boards. Thanks.
I've been trying to coax myself into starting the sanding, but I've gotten delayed doing other things.


Another excuse is that the weather has been looking so good around here lately that I am hesitating to put TC out of commission. In weather like this it is more enticing to take out the canoe rather than stay in sanding.
I've been trying to coax myself into starting the sanding, but I've gotten delayed doing other things.


Another excuse is that the weather has been looking so good around here lately that I am hesitating to put TC out of commission. In weather like this it is more enticing to take out the canoe rather than stay in sanding.
- littlesandy
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