In the stitch and glue section it states that it is very important to coat all surfaces with epoxy resin before applying the putty fillet. Do you do this the day before and let it dry or do you build the fillet onto the wet epoxy? If possible can I have an answer soon as it is sunny in Lancashire England and this is very unusual!
Thanks
Steve.
putty fillets
- BilltheCat
- Active Poster
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That "old familiar refrain". WET ON WET!
The mantra on this site is ;
WET ON WET! ..... WET ON WET!
The longer you wait between any epoxy coats (clear, thickened, wetting out fiberglass, whatever) the greater the possibility of amin blush coming to the surface and preventing cross linking between the coats or laminations. If the epoxy from the various coats doesn't cross link the lamination become layers that don't reinforce each other.
Clear epoxy is painted on the wood first because dry wood can absorb an alarming amount of epoxy and cause the putty to be too dry for a good joint.
Charlie
WET ON WET!....WET ON WET!
WET ON WET! ..... WET ON WET!
The longer you wait between any epoxy coats (clear, thickened, wetting out fiberglass, whatever) the greater the possibility of amin blush coming to the surface and preventing cross linking between the coats or laminations. If the epoxy from the various coats doesn't cross link the lamination become layers that don't reinforce each other.
Clear epoxy is painted on the wood first because dry wood can absorb an alarming amount of epoxy and cause the putty to be too dry for a good joint.
Charlie
WET ON WET!....WET ON WET!
Epoxy and Filletting Tips...
Wet on wet is the way to go. It's just much easier to work this way.
The amin blush can be a problem after the epoxy has had a day or two to cure.
Check out these epoxy and filleting tips I posted on my web site,
http://www.dimitroff.com/Epoxy.htm
hth,
-mike
The amin blush can be a problem after the epoxy has had a day or two to cure.
Check out these epoxy and filleting tips I posted on my web site,
http://www.dimitroff.com/Epoxy.htm
hth,
-mike
I too always thought it meant to epoxy coat, let it dry, then do the fillets.
The main reason for this was that wood will wick away epoxy. So you need prevent the wood from trying to wick the epoxy that is mix with flour to make the filleting material. Thus preventing a weaker seam. The catch was, as I understood it, you had to get the seam in place within 72 hours or your have to sand off any "blush" (i think that's what it's called).
I always thought wet on wet meant working with a wet fillet to install your fiberglass.
The main reason for this was that wood will wick away epoxy. So you need prevent the wood from trying to wick the epoxy that is mix with flour to make the filleting material. Thus preventing a weaker seam. The catch was, as I understood it, you had to get the seam in place within 72 hours or your have to sand off any "blush" (i think that's what it's called).
I always thought wet on wet meant working with a wet fillet to install your fiberglass.
Definately agree with wet on wet. It's a lot easier and faster than wet on dry.
1. Coat surfaces that will receive the fillet with unthickened epoxy (not a heavy coat, just a nice even coat)
2. Mix up fillet compound and fillet right away.
3. Glass over the fillet with pre-wet glass (wet out the glass on a piece of plastic on your work bench and then apply to the fillet right away).
4. Use a brush or foam brush and a bit of unthickened epoxy to make it smooth over the fillet, working out any air bubbles as you go.
Most of the final strength comes from the glass not the thickened epoxy fillet- so I've read several times.
-Dave
1. Coat surfaces that will receive the fillet with unthickened epoxy (not a heavy coat, just a nice even coat)
2. Mix up fillet compound and fillet right away.
3. Glass over the fillet with pre-wet glass (wet out the glass on a piece of plastic on your work bench and then apply to the fillet right away).
4. Use a brush or foam brush and a bit of unthickened epoxy to make it smooth over the fillet, working out any air bubbles as you go.
Most of the final strength comes from the glass not the thickened epoxy fillet- so I've read several times.
-Dave
Modified GV13- Mad Russian
- steelycreative
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- Location: canada
I'd still like to know a better method of doing the fillets than using a baggie...I tried this and its awkward and just made a mess.
Has anyone used chaulk tubes or the like for a nice clean finish ?
Barring that, has anyone forgone the mindless mantra of putty fillets altogether and tried construction adhesive or some other adhesive in a pre-filled tube ?
Has anyone used chaulk tubes or the like for a nice clean finish ?
Barring that, has anyone forgone the mindless mantra of putty fillets altogether and tried construction adhesive or some other adhesive in a pre-filled tube ?
- steelycreative
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- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 1:00 am
- Location: canada
I didn't like the bag method myself, i threw the putty on a palette made of scrap wood, then used tongue depressors and plastic spoons from the dollar store to form the fillet. I thought it worked well but I'm kinda artsy fartsy though so u might not like that method either. Regardless of what u use to apply it, whether it's a tube or not, ur still going to have to form the fillet to the desired shape.
Make sure u use epoxy resin, stay away from other glues, it won't work. At least I don't know of any that will. I have a web page if u care to look, it's www.steelycreative.com there u'll find some pics and heck, i don't know, maybe even some usefull information.
regards,
steely
Make sure u use epoxy resin, stay away from other glues, it won't work. At least I don't know of any that will. I have a web page if u care to look, it's www.steelycreative.com there u'll find some pics and heck, i don't know, maybe even some usefull information.
regards,
steely
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