question for you Larry

[jbridges]

Hey Larry, just read your post in this section and noticed you did not use any accelerator when you were having troubles. I already ordered some and was willing to try it but I'm wondering now if I should just try the MEK alone. I think our weather must be about the same, 65-70 and humid. It does look like yours turned out nice so I'm just wanting to make sure before I start.

[Cracker Larry]

Sorry, I didn't see this before now The MEK really helped it to dry faster, I used about 2 capfuls (cap from the MEK can)

and the accelerator..this is what Detco says. I used both together on the last 2 coats.

USE OF ACCELERATOR

IMPORTANT: When curing conditions in outdoor exposures will remain around or below 70°F, when fog or dew are expected and certainly in the winter months along the West Coast when painting is done in the open, STERLING gloss coatings will usually require acceleration to produce a chemical cure before dew or fog fallout causes damage to the film.

Chemical cure is prolonged by cooler temperatures and if moisture lands on the surface before the material has adequately cross-linked, the surface may lose its gloss. This is known as blushing, flatting-out or hazing. If severe, the surface will have to be re-prepared and new gloss applied. If moderate, i.e. a very slight hazing, it may be corrected when the surface has reached maximum hardness, if localized, by using a very fine rubbing compound such as 3M Finesse-It II.

It is best to complete gloss application early in the day, to prevent blushing, and by the use of U-2900 Accelerator. On warm days, it is advisable to use only enough accelerator to create a tack-free surface within 15-30 minutes or so and this may require from a few drops to one-eighth ounce or so per mixed quart. Increase quantity of accelerator as temperatures drop below 70°F during application and curing period. A maximum of one-half ounce of U-2900 accelerator per mixed quart may be used under extremely cold conditions for spraying. Do not use this much except in extreme conditions. This will reduce the 12 hour work life of the mixture, however it will decrease the tack-free time in cooler weather, speeding up the film cure sufficiently so that it may be applied outdoors with less risk of blushing. The more accelerator added, the faster the film will dry. Remember, if it sets too quickly, it may not flow and brush marks or spray stipple may be evident upon drying. Always use accelerator sparingly at first until its action becomes familiar.

[anonymous]

I appreciate it Larry. I talked to someone from Detco today and he told me not to use MEK, just use a few drops of accelerator. But after reading the Detco info it only makes sense to me if your going to use the accelerator, you need to use a little MEK to help evaporate the reducer out before it skins over.( To prevent dulling of the gloss due to the reducer breaking thru the already skinned over paint). Heres another question- if you add the MEK to the mix, is it considered more reducer ? And if so, do you have to decrease the 2965 in proportion ? In other words if I add a capful of MEK to the mix, do I subtract a capful from the 2965 added. Im sorry if Im making this more difficult than it has to be. Again, thanks.

[Cracker Larry]

In other words if I add a capful of MEK to the mix, do I subtract a capful from the 2965 added. Im sorry if Im making this more difficult than it has to be. Again, thanks.

I didn't. It seems to work better thin.

One more thing I'll mention, in almost every coat, the first side I painted did good and the second side always had more runs. I'm slow, but I determined the reason is that the paint gets thicker over time setting in the pot. If you add a capful of thinner about every 20 minutes while you're painting you can maintain the consistency you started with.

[Dog Fish]

I had a friend of mine spray my Hatteras with Sea Hawk 2 part poly. Every once and a while he would put some thinner in the 5 gal pail. More thin coats opposed to less thick coats. It was hot out.