V12 Sprit Sail question

[BillyV12]

When making the sprit sail, do any ropes need to be put in any of the seams along the luff or any other sides? Or is it just folded over and sewn?

Also, on the sheet where it goes through the eye at the clew, is the sheet knotted on both sides to keep the clew from sliding up and down the sheet?

Thanks,
Billy

[UncleRalph]

Also, on the sheet where it goes through the eye at the clew, is the sheet knotted on both sides to keep the clew from sliding up and down the sheet?

A bowline is normally used to attach a sheet to a sail.

Ralph

[jacquesmm]

No need for a rope on such a small sail.
May I suggest a good book about sailmaking?
http://www.boatplans-online.com/proddet ... rod=INT244

[BillyV12]

Thanks

[agiannelia]

Billy,

Did you already build your sail? What style did you make?

Alex

V10 Builder

[BillyV12]

agiannelia,

No, not yet. I did get some canvas cloth to practice sewing on, but that's as far as I've gotten. More than likely, I'll make the sail just like the plans show. I've found one other design of sail that fits really well, and would like nice, but haven't decided. Any ideas?

[agiannelia]

Billy,

I am going to build the original rig which is a sprit rig with a square sail. Jacques answered a couple of questions for me and seeing that I plan to use the boat as a tender to go out to my other boat and only occasionally will I sail her any distance, I want a tame docile rig.

If it is too docile, then I'll have to scale it up or change to a marconi rig.

It is important if you want to change anything to make absolutely sure you don't change the centre of effort position, otherwise you will have excessive lee or weather helm. I trust that this was figured out by Jacques in his sail plan, so I won't mess with it.

For example, adding a jib adds lee helm, adding length to the boom if you use one adds weather helm. Adding height will also add some weather helm because of mast rake.

For my spars, I've decided to build a hollow section using the birdsmouth method of laminating octagonal hollow spars. This sounds complicated, but if you have a bench saw, should actually make it easier to build a straight spar. I also plan to use ordinary northern spruce where I will cut the best strips from an old plank. Won't be clear, but will be strong.

Then I plan to laminate a layer of cloth on the outside. Again, making it up as I go along. Probably 6 oz, if I can get unidirectional, I will use that.

So much for that.

Alex

[JustRight]

If you have any interest in Sprit Rigs, besides Jacques suggestion of the Sailmaker's Apprentice book, see the two articles in April 2002 Wooden Boat Magazine.

The Sailmakers Apprentice book is the best and most complete I've seen on traditional sailmaking. It seems expensive until you find out what's covered. I've heard the author talk about sailmaking.

[Oarelse]

I would also suggest a brailing line. Drill a hole in the top of the mast - within an inch of the top, and smooth the corners with a rat tail file, and then sand smooth. Paint.

Run a light line through the hole and down to the deck. Run the other end of the line to the sprit.

Tightening the snotter will extend the sprit and you will have to let the brailing line run free. Loosening the snotter will drop the sprit, and then tightening the brailing line will bring it up against the mast and out of the way. For me having the sprit flopping around is a major annoyance. This also will let you run with a 'scandalized' sail in a blow, although it will introduce significant lee helm.

Good luck,

Dave Hahn

[agiannelia]

I built hollow spars and just am about finished sanding and want to laminate fiberglass cloth for eventual clear coat. Question:

In the case of round spars, do I laminate the cloth onto the wet spar or the dry spar then wet it out?

Alex