AD16 - Cool Change

[bondo]

That's great Arizona builder. Love all the details. Especially the good sailing reports. What does your wife think about being on the boat?

[ArizonaBuilder]

She loves the boat. She is actually pushing to get something larger in the upper 20's. She would love to try some coastal sailing from cabo to vancouver.

[ArizonaBuilder]

Could you get away with only one lever on the forestay?
Also, how did you resolve the sail track problem?

It is possible that maybe I can get away with a single lever. I will try that first.

So as we know the delrin tube which acted as the sail track pulled away from the fiberglass and collapsed making it impossible to raise the sail. So the first thing to do was to remove the tubing. For this I took a cutting blade on my dremel and ran it along the length of the tube to cut the backside of the tube. Once I cut the tube almost all the way through, it was easy to pry the two halves away from the fiberglass to remove them.

Now I was left with a fiberglass formed tube where the delrin tube was located. I next mixed up a epoxy woodflour mixture that was thick but still runny and poured it into the cavity until it was full along the total length of the mast. After this had cured for a couple of weeks in the arizona summer heat I took my belt sander along the length of the mast to create a small flat landing pad.

I purchased 3 6' foot sections of Sail Track Stainless 5/8" (6 Foot Section) from sailrite. The track is mounted with screws every couple of inches. I placed the track on the mast and predrilled some pilot holes. Next I placed the track on with 5200 and the screws along the length. I will have to see how this holds up over time. But it worked just fine yesterday.

I also replaced the existing sliders on my sail with sliders that were made for the track I was using.

Over all it was about a 200.00 fix.. Hopefully it holds.

[ArizonaBuilder]

My next challenge is to figure out how to cut down the time to rig from travel mode to sail mode and back to travel mode so less time is spent rigging and derigging in the parking lot of the boat ramp.

My first question.

I have a small 2 hp 4 stroke nissan which sits on a adjustable bracket that allows me to lower or raise the motor when on the water. Is it okay to leave the motor on this bracket while on the road. Right now I move the motor to the transom and secure it with a tiedown strap. This setup is very secure.

If I could leave the motor on the bracket while traveling that will be one less thing to do at the ramp. If I left it on the bracket I would still secure it with a tie down strap.

[gk108]

That sounds like a good fix on the mast. Believe it or not, you were the one who inspired me to make a CF mast for my dinghy. I remember thinking it took you a long time to make it, but after spending most of the winter on mine, I guess you worked pretty fast on it.

You may want to check with your motor bracket manufacturer, but most are designed to take the beating on a trailer. There's a whole lot of them out there with a permanently rigged kicker for trolling in a large power boat. As long as your transom is properly reinforced, it seems like it would be OK.

[ArizonaBuilder]

I think I should be good with the mounted motor, it is only a 2 hp and the bracket is rated for a 5hp, max 124 lbs.
I just need to make sure the motor mounting screws don't come loose. and the bracket attachment to the transom has a backer plate inside the bench seat.. so well secured.

gk108:
What kind of track did you put in your mast?

[gk108]

No track on my mast. It's just a small 40 sq. ft sail, roughly the same as a Bolger Nymph sail, so it's laced on the mast. After I tested the mast the first time, I thought it was a bit too limber for me, so I added a wooden filler to the aft side and made it teardrop shaped. After I added the wood strip, I realized that it would be a pretty easy way to add a track to it by flattening the aft side to make a bed for the track.

[jacquesmm]

Nothing will properly glue Delrin. It should be secured with screws and a backing plate strip inside.

[jacquesmm]

Spi or cruising chute dims.

We got your email but I prefer to answer here, others may want the information.

What we show is not a jib but a gennaker.
For that spi
J = 181"
I = 98"

Your sail maker knows what that means.
J is from the mast to the tip of boom, I is from deck to spi block.

He is going to ask you what type of sail you want: cruising chute, asymmetrical spi, drifter or?

You wrote that you want an assymetrical spi. The rig is not designed for that but it is possible. You must reinforce the mast where the spi pole will push in compression.
Or then, I would hoist an assymetrical tri-radial on the pole we show or on a mini-Transat style pole articulated on the deck.
I prefer to put the compression on the deck than on the mast.
Talk to your sailmaker, show him the sail plan.

[ArizonaBuilder]

He is going to ask you what type of sail you want: cruising chute, asymmetrical spi, drifter or?

What kind of sail should I use with the spi pole.. a gennaker?

What did you have in mind when you showed the gennaker on the study plans.

Sorry, I just don't know which sail would be correct. I just want something to hoist.

Just too many choices..

I am building the spi pole as described in the plans..