a GV13 build...

[alexit]

Thanks for the support guys... I can assure you, I have all the goop and more on every bit of clothing I own.
As for a bigger boat... one day I will build myself an 18ft 'putt-putt' clinker... but at the moment, the kombi just will not tow anything that big.
Anyway..back to the build.
Took a quick look out the workshop for some sunset inspiration.
They have been developing the Walsh Bay area recently, and the apartments on this wharf start at 'just' 1.4m aus$!!
And they pay me to work here!

Ok, now for the bow section.
I had been wondering how to finish the bow area ever since getting the plans 12 months or so ago, and it wasn't till after I started building in Jan this year that I came to this solution.
I bend a bit of 50mm x 6mm ply between the two ribs and play with the length and rise of the curve till I think... yeah, looks right.
Then glue up the ends and add a couple of screws to hold it while it goes off.

Next I add a brace in the centre, making sure that the curve is even across the bow.

Then in go the cleats. It is hard to see here, but there is also 12mm ply cleats on the inside if the hull on each side of the bow.

[MadRus]

That's beautiful. I can't wait to see it finished. This is one versatile 13 footer.

-Dave

[alexit]

The shape of the ply top was traced directly from the frame shown in my previous post leaving an overhang on the inside edge to allow it to be trimmed back to the frame later. The screws you can see were just to pull the top into place while the epoxy went off. I removed them later and filled the holes.

As you can see I have made the top finish at the same level as the current gunnel, not just sitting ontop.
It just gives a better line.

Step back to get the bigger picture....

And I must say, I was very pleased to see how it sits with the hull from this angle.

[alexit]

The last of the fillets...the seating...yay!

You can see that I have spaced short lenghts of 2x1 'ribs' down each side. I did this for a few reasons...
To give a bit of extra support to the sides, as I had cut down the hull framing to seat level as stated in a previous post.
It allows me to run length of 2x1 along the top of the gunnel and onto the bow, creating a nice lip on the inner edge, and a rounded outer profile

The maple 2x1 would not take the curve on edge, so I ripped part the way down the length to where the bow started to sweep in and up.

I did a dry fit with screws, leaving a foot or so extra to help with pulling the last section in

All went well with the dry fit so out comes the epoxy...
You may notice that I masked a small section just before the bow. I later cut this section off, so the top gunnel finished just short of the bow. I did this is where I intend on mounting the port/starboard fairleads.

[DrBones]

Alexit, that is some phenomenal work! I really like how you approached your bow. I'm sure there will be others out there who will follow that idea. The curved panel there looks really nice.

[alexit]

Here is a little detail that I did not mention before.
In an attempt to get a 'mostly dry' hatch, the front and back edge of the lid has an overhang. I have also routed a small channel along the inside edge of the hatch openings. I am hoping that this will allow any water seeping into the join to run along and out, rather than into the area. I will see how effective this is, and may still add that sick on foam seal later.

Almost the last of those late afternoon epoxy fill jobs...

Step back for a look...
That is about done for the innards, and ready to flip back over to fair the hull, sort the sprayrails and paint!

[alexit]

With a little help, the hull is flipped and up on some milkcrates.
I took the chance to put some scales under her and she came out at just under 130kgs. A bit more than I calculated, but still on the light side for a 13ft boat with a raised sole, hatches etc. I'm happy with that.
I used microballoons to fair as I have a tub at my disposal. I know the Quickfair would have been nicer though I found that with carefull application, you can save LOTS of time on the sander. I also found a mixer on a drill made short work of getting the microballoons into the epoxy.
The fairing job is by no means auto-smooth, and I debated doing a second fill....nup.
You can see bits of weeve and such but you cannot pick the taping of the joins, and that is all I was after really.

The sprayrails I was worried about, and even considered leaving them off.
A quick look on this forum and a poll of small boat owners at work stopped that idea short... not good.
You see, there is no real way to hard clamp the rail and I don't like the idea of screws into the hull......
So.
I get my chosen profile....which is 38mm quarter round 'quad', and starting from the stern, cut it into short sections that follow the chine...no bending...no clamping...no worries!
Let me explain.
The first section was a straight 1.5m then I had about 10 smaller bits of about 150mm and the last piece I shaped before glueing. All these sections were applied like you would laying bricks, using an epoxy glue mix of course. The best thing being that the epoxy held the small bits really well, needing only a bit of tape to sure it. A bit fo carefull filling and a sand after and I have my sprayrails.
I do not know if others have used this technique, but it works and it is easy. Maybe not so good for structural areas like the gunnels, but for sprayrails!!!

I also added a layer of light glass tape over the rails as they are quite exposed the glass should help keep them sane.

A bit of a sand to bring the rails into the hull and I think it is ready for paint.

[ausie]

Alex,

Glad you did the spray rails..(how doesn't matter)....the ones on the GV11 keep the boat very dry!..& by being coved to the hull,form a small lift strake which can only help at planing speeds.

Al. Burke.

[alexit]

I am going for the International brand paints for this boat. First the primer, then pre-kote and finish with the Brightside in off-white and royal blue.
I gave the hull a wipe down with thinners before a good brush coat of primer, a light sand, then two brush coats of the pre-kote (sanding again between coats), then finished with spray equipment for the final coats of the Brightside off-white.

I took the chance to cut in with the blue on the undersides of the spray rail and the gunnels whist the hull was upside down. I also got in underneath and brushed in all the undersides of the seats and hatches.
A lot easier than breaking your neck doing it later...

After a good week to allow the paint to harden, I flipped the hull back and primed + pre-kote the all internals.

I used a quality brush for the Brightside giving two coats all over. Off white inside the hatches and on the seating, and royal blue for the rest.
Before I started with the Brightside, I gave all the floor areas and to a lesser extent, the seat tops, a non slip finish.

The finish is not A+ thats for sure, but I figure this boat is to to be used.
It will be scratched, bashed, scuffed and all else that a small boat gets on an outing.
I'm not worried bout these things....the boat will develop 'character' I told my girl....

[MadRus]

Beautiful Alex! Don't forget to post some shots on the water.

-Dave