Table saw suggestions

[Cracker Larry]

I usually build my own feather boards, but also have a couple of store bought ones. I also made a variety of push sticks and push blocks for different size material.

I'll take a picture in a few minutes....

A couple of main safety tips, never stand directly behind or in front of the board you are ripping, stay off to one side. It can eject with enough force to kill you. Keep a firm grip and stable stance. Never reach across a spinning blade. Never cross arms to hold or feed the wood. Each hand always on it's own side of the blade.

[Cracker Larry]

Here are a few of my homemade feather boards and push sticks. I like the wood feather boards better than the plastic one. The plastic is OK for some things and it rides in the miter slots on the table, but the wood feeds smoother and holds better and I can clamp them anywhere.

Pick up a table saw book at Lowes or HD, they will have a lot of basic tools and jigs you can build. I've got one called Table Saw Bench Guide, it has every kind of feather board and jig you could ever want. A table saw is a mighty handy tool, even a POS Ryobi like mine It's only saving grace is that it has a built in router table, which is better than the saw itself

[Bowmovement]

If you plan on ripping anything with some length get some outfeed supports. This was important for because I use a contractor saw and the table is small. What I did was build an addition to my work bench that the saw sits on and the table is just an RCH higher than the work bench. The work surface is 6' so it works great. Its also on casters.

T is under a death threat if he turns it on and I'm not standing there

Reminds me of when I was a kid. Until a certain age if you so much as stepped into my Grandfathers shop you were picking your own switch off the tree.

Matt

[liki]

One safety tip I've been taught is to have an extra piece between the blade and fence if your operation results in an unsupported piece sitting tight between the blade and the fence.

[Prarie Dog]

Thanks for all the safety tips. Larry the next time I'm close to one of those stores I'll pick up one of those books.

Matt, that table to catch the work is one of the most talked about on Youtube-"tablesaw safety" films.

One safety tip I've been taught is to have an extra piece between the blade and fence if your operation results in an unsupported piece sitting tight between the blade and the fence.

Liki, not sure I understand this, could you please post a pic??

[Steven]

If you are cross cutting a board, never let the end ride against the fence. The offcut trapped between the blade and the fence can easily be ejected back at you with tremendous force. I was once cutting a bevel on a panel with the panel on edge against the fence. I was 'raising' the panel for a blanket chest. This was on a 3hp Unisaw. I was using push blocks and being very careful, or so I thought. I managed to close the kerf and the panel kicked back off my ribs and into the garage door, leaving a large dent. Thought I broke a rib. Knocked the wind right out of me. After shaking off the event, I looked at the push block which had a large gash in it. I would have lost some fingers at least, if I hadn't been using the push block. Even though I was being very careful, this was an accident of inexperience. Do as Larry suggests and read up on table saw safety. Here is a youtube video of a kick back demonstration. Notice what happens with the push block I'm using. This nit wit almost lost some fingers during the demonstration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4

[LIDave]

For cross cutting I use a clamp guide and my porter cable circular saw (one from the 90s when they still made them in good old USA)
something like this

These things are great for cutting doors and tons of other things..
Definitely a Must Have for any shop.

[Prarie Dog]

Had some time this weekend so we built an outfeed table for my saw. Due to the light the table's kinda hard to see but it's four wide and 6 long. HD had a sale on 29/64's AC ply that is sanded on both sides and has no knots in the outer faces. Looked like good strong stuff so that's what we built the top out of, had enough left over to build a shelf underneath that's 2X6, well almost, had to use a scrap I had left over from a project a few years ago to fill the last couple of feet. It's real strong and has no wiggle at all, kinda heavy to move around but that's okay, the saw's on casters that can be raised or lowered with a pedal, just roll the saw to the table and hold it in place while lowering the pedal.

Had a question on an edge treatment on the table edge. It's ply and will get buggered up over the years if I don't do some kind of edge treatment. I was thinking about edging it with a 2X4 that would be mounted vertically with a rabbit cut in the inner upper edge. The problem with that is everything that was clamped on the edge would have to be clamped with a large capacity clamp. It would be much easier for me to use a 6" clamp to clamp stuff because I have a dozen of them or so. What I did was rip a 2X4 cut a rabbit in it and have it clamped in place. Do you guys think this is adequate for an edge treatment? How would you guys attach this edge? I was thinking about epoxying it on there but it's so cold these days might be March before I can do it. All thoughts and ideas appreciated.





Does anybody have an opinion on a brand of woodworking vise that works well for a hobby shop. I've read some on a type of vise that has a latch in it that allows for quick adjustments, some folks like them some don't. Does anyone here have one and what do you think?
Thanks, PD

[Prarie Dog]

Larry, could you tell us what kind of wood you used to make your feather boards?

Thanks, PD

[Bowmovement]

Check...
www.rockler.com
They have about anything you need woodwork wise