Modified CC (very modified)

[ks8]

[silentneko]

No this isn't rain drops on my yak, It's what happens when you try strip building for the first time, lol. I'm now filling in, as well as I can, all the staple holes, gaps, knot cracks, and stitches. It's very time consuming, If I do this again I will refine my process to make sure all the staple holes line up and the gaps are near invisible. I also added a thin strip to the nose to cap off the strips.

[gstanfield]

It's too late now, but what I did on my strip canoe was to sand it pretty decent then take steaming hot water and wipe it down all over. This swelled the wood a bit and closed the staple holes about 99% then I sanded lightly and you could hardly tell the staple holes were ever there.

Looking good

[silentneko]

Yeeaaahhh, I have perhaps done a few things out of order on this one, lol.

I went over the outside with warm water and a foam brush hitting each hole, then I Sanded. It shrank them up a lot and many you can't see, but the rest I had to fill. Next time I will do it your way. Also when I make the decks I will try to line up all the staple holes every few inches so it looks more uniform.

[Charlie]

I am about a week behind on this build now. I pulled my back and had to stay out of the garage, but I'm all healed up and ready to go.

I had to cut a bunch of strips, some from 2x and some from 1x, to finish up the boat. Honestly that is the worst part, cutting all the strips takes forever, then having to piece the panels together. If I built from luan panels it would have been assembled in a weekend, but it would be heavier and not nearly as cool.

I started working on the interior support structure. I redid all my draft calculations, I calculated out the area station by station at 18". I used several different methods to try and find the draft and got a range from 3.2" to 4.1", however that is at 350lbs total load. I seriously doubt I will ever exceed the 320lbs mark but wanted to figure high. I decided to make the sole 4.75" so it will be self bailing after all. I may have gone a little nuts and over built it.

Test fitting


I decided to lighten the supports a little by cutting some holes, it won't effect them structurally as they are overbuilt anyway. I will be using floatation foam under the sole so it will flow between the chambers and add even more support.

The holes I cut out lightened the support by about a pound or so.

You have lot of stuff in that boat. Where does the seat go?

[silentneko]

A little north of the hull bottom, but just south of my rear . Seriously though I'm not sure what you mean, I haven't put the sole down yet, it will be bolted to the top of that at some point and fasion.

[Charlie]

My Cheap Canoe is close to the plans and is rather tippy if I try to sit too high. Your version looks much wider but are you sure your modified bottom makes the boat stabile enough to allow you to sit so high?

[ks8]

If not, I suspect we may see the slick strip planked amas next...

[LIDave]

My Cheap Canoe is close to the plans and is rather tippy if I try to sit too high. Your version looks much wider but are you sure your modified bottom makes the boat stabile enough to allow you to sit so high?

I was thinking the same thing. I noticed a difference in stability between sitting on a cushion and sitting flat on the bottom of the canoe.
But.... maybe with the extra weight and width it would be more stable.. IDK

[silentneko]

The standard CC is only 22" at the widest point of the hull bottom, mine is 28". 6" may not seem like much, but really it will be a world of difference in stability. Some of my inspiration came from SOT yaks I've seen that people stand up in, they were anywhere from 27" to 34" wide. The SUP offered now is only 30.5" wide, so I think I will be ok, I may not be able to stand, but stability at rest for fishing will be good. Worst case is I build some outriggers.