Snookiehunter's gf18 w/ tunnel

[Cracker Larry]

I usually use a 4" foam roller. It does a great job of even distribution and filleted corners. Chip brushes always give me an uneven finish and drop brush hairs everywhere, no matter how hard I pull on the hairs before starting. They are good for some situations, but I mostly use a foam roller.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_119118-11591-94 ... BeanArray=[com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%40507c507c]&pl=1&productId=3140735&ipTrail=75.89.203.19&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Ddoor%2Band%2Bcabinet%2Broller

[snookiehunter]

So far, this is what I've come up with. This is the seat top plane, adding 6" at the bow transom, then curving back toward A frame. I'm not sure how to get the line straight, or fair, before cutting. A string surely didn't work.

[AtTheBrink]

Your new sheerline looks good. What is the chine to top of sheer measurement at the transom?

[snookiehunter]

Yeah, I haven't decided what to do with it yet. I've been going back and forth on it. My main concern is the deck mount trolling motor. I guess my question is how much degree bow rise will the trolling motor bracket allow, before the shaft is at too much of an angle, to be efficient.
I also plan on running offshore during scallop season, so I'd like for there to be some height to the bow transom. I most likely will go with the flat sheer. Mainly for the trolling motor, and windage. I'll have to trim up the motor, and run bow high, if it gets real choppy.
The chine to top of sheer measurement is approx. 20 inches, at the rear.

[tobolamr]

I have a little experience here, so I'd like to make a suggestion: The trolling motor shaft really needs to come off the bow and go straight down. Especially if you have universal sonar in the unit. If it's a slight angle, no big deal, obviously, but too much will help increase cavitation and decrease efficiency of the thrust you have available to you. Just my thoughts.

[pee wee]

you could make a tapered base to compensate for any angle. A year or two ago, I recall Cracker Larry made a base for a trolling motor mount, described the process and added pictures.

[snookiehunter]

Progress has slowed. Work, and other projects seem to get in the way. I finished the fiberglassing this weekend. Sanded the whole boat down smooth, taped (second layer) the seams, and layed one run of fabric down the middle, covering the tunnel, and transom. Today, I sanded, again, and layed the two runs of fabric up the sides, and covered the transoms, overlapping all seams. Wow, this is a beast to do by myself! Anyway, now I'm ready for some stringers, and some framing, then flip, and fair.
So far, I'm still having fun with it, and would do it again. I just wish I had more time to spend on it.

[tech_support]

Your through a big part of the build. Those are probably the biggest single "jobs" on the build, the rest of the build will mostly consist of smaller "jobs" that are easy to tackle a couple hours at a time; like glassing in a frame or stringer, do one each night and you will make steady progress.

[AMC]

I like your shear line. That is exactly what I plan on doing if I end up making this boat, I still haven't decided between this and the FS17. Looks good so far, just keep plugging away at it, you'll be in the water before you know it.

[snookiehunter]

Hey fellas, I'm still here, and plugging away at it. I've got the stringers glued, and taped (3 of 4, done). I ran out of tape before I could get them completed. I had enough to get past D frame, from the transom. So, I filled in the gap between the tunnel, and stringers, with 14 oz of foam. That was fun to watch.


I cut the sheer, finally. I pretty much just moved the string around, untill it looked good, then traced it out with a marker. Then, I used my cut off as a template, on the other side. I went with a 3 inch rise, from stern, to bow.
I also laid the final layers of glass in the bow area. I used the cut off bow transom as a bow eye backing plate. It was the shape I needed, and didn't want to waste that chunk of pre-glassed 1/2" plywood!
I've been thinking about final layout. I want weight in the bow, but how much? I am willing to sacrifice ride comfort for level trim/ shallow running draft. I want the trolling batteries (2) in the bow, and maybe the fuel tank too. Seperating them is no problem. Weight is the issue, here. I can move the batteries to the console, after the fact, but not the fuel tank.
I'm most likely going to move D frame forward 6-10", and will be standing/leaning in front of that. That leaves me a little wiggle room for the console, while giving me room for a fishbox, and cooler, in between frames D, and E, on either side of the tunnel. I have to leave the front/ top of the tunnel open, so it can be vented, if needed, so that space is wasted. (storage?)

I'm going to go with a flat rear deck, with no motor well. My transom is raised 4", for the tunnel. I will be using a jack plate. Do you see any problem here? Specifically with j/p mounting? I will have 3.75" exposed, above the deck, after the deck, and fillet. Also. do you foresee any hardware/ rigging obstructions? I'm not quite sure how to run the rigging, yet.