a question on switches...

[AtTheBrink]

I will post that link as soon as I can.

[AMC]

This single pole would require the diode, which would add another component.

[AtTheBrink]

Thanks for the imput guys.

[majorgator]

The up position will be all the nav lights,the down on position will just be the rear white all around light.

Mike, I would rethink that operation. Personally, I like having 2 switches, but if you go the single switch route, I think it should be:
UP = nav lights and all-around light
DOWN = nav lights

If you're fishing at night, there will be times when you'll definitely want the all-around light turned off, but you'll still need the nav lights. When you're driving, you're not going to like that big white light beaming all the way around you, as it disrupts your night vision. I did a lot of night fishing last summer on my XF20, and my nav lights were on from the time I left the dock to the time I returned.

[AtTheBrink]

By all around I ment the white anchor light and nav lights I ment the red and green lights. I won't have a "all around" light. Didn't mean to confuse..

[ks8]

If you fish alot while anchored, and don't have a T-top over which to mount a motoring or anchor light, up and out of your own view, there's no reason not to explore the legal options. I found it necessary for me to mount an *all-around* white light as high as possible out of my sight, and of the *no glare* focal beam type. I think I have a 62 inch pole on top of my console now, and that isn't high enough. Putting a big blocking disk a few inches under the light isn't a great solution if out in the wind with a long aluminum pole light. With no wind, and seated, it works, but not when standing. I hate losing night vision.

So I built my stubby utility mast partly so I could mount a proper 225 degree motoring light on the front of it (one meter above the red/green lights), and a 135 degree stern light behind me. That completely solves the problem, and is legal. Lights up the world and keeps me in the dark. The pole *anchor* light then goes on top of the stubby utility mast, waaaaay up top. All that gets finished when I get the boat to Florida.

Having the options makes the case for separate switches stronger, but also makes it good to brief any guests who will take the helm during changing modes of night boating.

Did I mention that I hate being blinded by an all around motoring light and losing night vision? I don't care if an all-around is in front or in back of me .... can't stand it.

[Cracker Larry]

I hate lights in my face too. Running lights destroy night vision unless they are mounted in the right places. Even then, I usually keep them turned off unless there is traffic

My red and green sidelights are below the gunwales on each side, and my all around white is on the T-top. On my old top it was on the rear edge of the top which still bothered me. On my new top I had Raymond put it in the center. Much better No glare in the eyes. I want 2 switches for mine. One for the white, one for the red and green. Underway requires all 3 being lit. Anchored requires white only.

[majorgator]

Mike, let's make sure we're on the same page here...

By all around I ment the white anchor light...I won't have a "all around" light.

We're talking about the same thing here, right? You're going to have a while light (probably pole mounted) near the stern of your boat...?? I believe that anchor light and all-around light are synonymous on the size boats we have. I would still recommend my original idea with the switch arrangement. If you're not going with 2 switches, then make the down position nav lights only.

[Boater45]

The annunciator I bought has the NAV on top and ANC on bottom. I wired my to run both when pushed up and just ANC when pushed down.

[APLJaK]

Hi Mike

The difference between a double pole double throw (DPDT) and a single pole double throw (SPDT) is simply that the double pole is like two switches in one. Since the lights only need the positive lead switched, a DP switch will work but you will probably not use one pole at all.

There are a couple of solutions for you and I kind of like Shine's redundancy solution where the nav and anchor/run lights are on separate switches. Of course, that means that you need to remember to turn them both on at appropriate times. Another solution is in the drawing below (no fuses shown - and you need them). Power is sent to the common connection (usually the center position) on one pole of the double throw switch. One of the two outputs is sent to the navigation lights, the other to the anchor/run light. Now you can have your nav lights or the anchor light but not both at the same time. To resolve this, you simply connect power from the nav lights to the run light. The problem is that if you are using a common anchor/run light, power will "backfeed" from the anchor light and light up your nav lights, certainly not what you intended. To correct this, place a diode in series with the feed to the run light. Now, power can flow from the nav to the run light, but cannot backfeed to the nav lights when all you intended to have lit was the anchor light.

If you have separate anchor and run lights, then you do not need the diode. Simply connect the nav lights to the run light and the second throw position of your switch to the anchor light.