restore OD18 to former greatness

[jtdums]

I have been wanting to continue on my building journey after a couple of NC16 and a D5 for my daughters. I thought my next project was going to be the Fast Skiff 17 (which I got plans for on my birthday), but I think a gem has fallen in my lap.

I found a local OD18 that was for sale after let's say being ridden hard and put away wet. Cosmetically it is rough. But I think the bones are there and since it was down to the FS17 or the OD18 originally, this might as well be my next project.



Hull seems sound and the bottom is unmarred. There are too many old screw holes for my liking so I am going to investigate how best to fix them. I am thinking over drilling and epoxy filling from what I have read here.

I have a few other initial concerns.
There are cracks in the fiberglass that I hope haven't yet led to wood rot underneath.

A small one in the transom is the most worrisome to me.

I think I will dremel the crack to see what it looks like underneath before re-glassing. (hopefully)

The rub rail is in need of some help too.




The majority of it still appears sound however. Repair/ replacement suggestions would be welcome here too.

The console is basically shot.




I don't know what year it was built, but it was built by someone in SC. Now it is here in NC.
24 gallon fuel tank up in the bow. Live well and bait well aft. Twin batteries under console.

Thanks for any suggestions or items that should be inspected.
I know you guys love pictures so I would be happy to snap more of anything to share.

[jacquesmm]

What type plywood was used?
That will be the most important point.
If the boat is made from quality plywood, it is worth reconditioning.

Ask the builder where he bought the plywood and epoxy.

It looks like he really used the boat! The crack in the transom looks like a stress crack from the trailer or from having a heavier engine. If it's good plywood, it can be fixed.
The rubrail separating is strange.
He may not have used epoxy there,
Some do not realize that the wood part of the rubrail is structural and use junk like liquid nails. Or cheap wood that splits.

Open those inspection plates and check the stringers and cleats.

[jtdums]

The boat comes to me from a third party from the builder so I can't ask questions.
I will get my head inside and look to see if it was marine grade. I'll keep you posted. (at work now)

What looks like round inspection plates are actually the remnants of two pedestal bases. I don't know if I have access to see the stringers or cleats. I am hoping that the sole was otherwise installed well and kept the bilge sealed. There was a drain plug installed and no water came pouring out even after it sat, so I am hopeful.

Should I cut the sole to inspect?

The previous owner attempted to use a mid '70's 85hp motor at one point so you are likely spot on about what caused the transom crack. Does it likely need to be reinforced and re-glassed even if the plywood checks out. Did the size of that motor do damage?

Given the extent of the cracks in the rub rail, would it be best to remove and replace? Can I cut away the damaged section and scarf in a repair?

Thanks very much.

[jacquesmm]

For the transom, I would simply clean and fill the crack. The fairing (putty) is the 1st thing to crack there if something brutal happens but a properly glued transom does not fail.

I would replace the rubrail. It is not a difficult job.
Build a laminated rubrail as on any of our boats: layers of 1/4".

[jacquesmm]

BTW, to check if it is marine plywood, tell us what the thickness of the plywood is and how many layers it is made from.
That will usually tell.
10 mm (3. with 5 plies and 12 mm (1/2") with 7 plies is almost certainly decent marine ply.

Don't desperate if it has less plies.
I built the 1st OD16 from XL fir (marine) and it lasted more than 5 years. It was destroyed when the owner decided to make a fiberglass mold from it.

[willg]

It was destroyed when the owner decided to make a fiberglass mold from it.

Karma.

[ddbiiz]

Jt,
That was my first build 02-03 I sent you an email It didn't look like that when I sold it in 08.
Don

[jtdums]

Gotta love this site. This was Don's baby and he has offered to answer questions for me along the way.

Looks like I'm at least the 4th owner. I'm going to get into some of the topside glass cracks this weekend to see what lies underneath. I still feel good about the hull even though Don pointed out that it was his first crack (no pun intended) at boat building and knowing what he knows now he would do some things differently.

He did foam under the sole and I have no reason to believe there are problems there, but it was built in '03 and I wonder if I should be checking stringers via cutting an access hole in the sole? It was built with pressure treated plywood on the hull that air dried for about 3 months. I know this isn't the ideal, but if everything appears solid and the price was right should I worry?

I am going to remove the console and rebuild it. It was made with 3oz tape that didn't hold up to the test of time. I think it is a right off. Plus I have to do a little building on this OD. I have the stock "bateau" console design from my fs17 plans and some version of it would do nicely. I'm not going to try to reinvent the wheel.

Although a little sacrilegious to say around here, I'm not a fisherman and don't even play one on TV. I will do a little reconfiguring to make it more of a family boat. The live well and bait well aft are in a bit of a state. The fiberglass in the live well has separated from plywood in the tank and I assume water is getting behind it. My plan is to remove bait well and live well and go with a bench seat in front of the motor well. I'm pretty sure the wells were in no way structural and I hope to be OK as long as I don't remove or alter the motor well bulkhead. This will also give me a chance to inspect that bulkhead.

I don't have a plan for the bench yet, but it either needs a fixed back rest or perhaps a flip up/down back rest of some sort. Sides would be a good safety feature for the kids too due to the low side height at the stern. (seat will be just about level with the sides) If anyone has done this before I would love suggestions/ pictures.

Hopefully the rain will cease and weather remain temperate so I can get some work started.

[glossieblack]

What a great 'closing the loop' story .

[jtdums]

Seeking advice on this one.

Part of the sole was cut away in the port storage locker in this OD to provide access for a water inlet for the bait well and to act as a sump. It was fiberglassed at the time of construction.

At some point in the past the sump well must have cracked. (I'm thinking a freeze cycle with water left in it.) Water is able to migrate out of the sump, but seems to not have had the ability to flow to the bilge and exit via the pump or drain plug.

(I know this because water is draining (seeping) back into the now empty sump as I pump it out and there is no water in the bilge nor has there been for some days.) If the water has been trapped for some time between the port stringer and the port side of the hull, is it likely that the stringer or hull has sustained damage? Does this necessitate cutting out a portion of the sole to inspect the stringers?

This boat was foamed so I am thinking inspection even with a hole cut would be very difficult.
Any advise is appreciated. I've learned a great deal from the knowledge base on this forum, but I haven't come across a similar situation so thanks in advance.