61' Owens 18' Runabout-Stringers and Keel Questions

[Boatfender]

I am considering filling or partial fill of the hollow keel. It is thin enough to see day light thru it near the bow... but I'm wanting to fill or mat much more as It is deep enough that forming the new center stringer (3/4" Marine plywood x2) would be unnecessarily difficult and waist full to radius the bottom of the new center stringer (so that it will fit into the deep narrow keel groove.). All original stringers were 3/4" (fur??) so 3/4" single stringer fit easily into the deep narrow keel groove. I would like double 3/4" above the center keel. Or with partial inset into the keel.
Also there were only five stringers and no headers. I would like to add 2 more stringers and 2-3 headers for integrity.
Should they be mounted on the high side of each chine?\strake? On top of the chine?/strake?
The bottom of this hull seems very thin with a lot of flex so I intend on doing at least one full cover of 1708 biaxial before setting stringers. I am finding mixed info on stringer lay up as well like west systems and many others say big layer first and then subsequently smaller. In apparent opposition I find some info like this one on iboats.com /forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/394579-1961-lonestar-flamingo-splashed-w-pics/page42?_=1407915775853 (scroll down to bottom half of page and checkout the lay up.) ?? Which is best?
I will attempt to attach some pics so you may be able to see the deep void in the keel.
Is posting pics allowed on this site...confusing...maybe it's just me?

[tech_support]

please post pictures Even a link to a picture is good......

but I'm wanting to fill or mat much more as It is deep enough that forming the new center stringer (3/4" Marine plywood x2) would be unnecessarily difficult and waist full to radius.

I dont understand

The bottom of this hull seems very thin with a lot of flex so I intend on doing at least one full cover of 1708 biaxial before setting stringers. I am finding mixed info on stringer lay up as well like west systems and many others say big layer first and then subsequently smaller. In apparent opposition

in theory (WITH EPOXY) it does not matter. With other resins you progressively use bigger pieces so each layer is bonded to hull

I think I know what your talking about doing here, but I really need some pictures - please

[Boatfender]

Thanx Shine for your reply. I finally got the picture thing figured out. I hope the deep groove inside the keel is visible in the pics.The keel is thin hollow and deep...over 2 inches in places so my thought is to smooth out the recessed keel with peanut butter, then mat in and build up over the peanut butter with 1708 biax and bring it up nearly flush with the inside bottom of the hull then set the center stringer.
I am wondering if my thinking is on the right track?

[tech_support]

thanks for the pictures. If it were my boat, I would fill that recess with a few strips of glass (to reinforce it) then glass a half PVC pipe over top to make a center drain (which will double as a stiffener)

[Boatfender]

This is a better plan than what I had intended. Better simpler, lighter and cheaper. I had thought I would run a pipe or half pipe of PVC down each side of the stringer...never thought about going under the stringer. Pipes down the side would never had drained as well and I was concerned about that.
Yesterday I opened up a fair size hole in the hull. Solid resin with no mat or fiber in an area that was under one of the stringers.
It looked fine (other than no fiber in it)...until I stepped in just the right spot and crack! Better to find it now I guess.
Thanx for the great info! I am learning as I go and I want to do this and make it last a long time. Dad bought this boat when I was 1 year old. When he passed he left it to me. I would like it stand the test of time so I can pass it down the line.

[Boatfender]

So if I install a pipe or half pipe down the center under the stringer I will need to drill holes in it to drain each compartment bulkhead/stringers so water can get into the drain pipe and flow to the rear well near the transom (it will be plugged during use). My concern is when I pour the floatation foam it may plug the small drain holes. All I can think so far is to use thick paper (like grocery bag material) or masking tape in hopes that it will dissolve if water is present.
I truly will try to totally seal the sole/deck to the hull/stringers/bulkheads, but if water does ever get in there I want to know about it and i would like to be-able to drain/dry it out.
So essentially the pipe will drain into the well when the plug is pulled and the well will drain out the transom when its plug is pulled.

[tech_support]

Dad bought this boat when I was 1 year old. When he passed he left it to me. I would like it stand the test of time so I can pass it down the line.

and thats a great reason to re-build this boat

So if I install a pipe or half pipe down the center under the stringer I will need to drill holes in it to drain each compartment bulkhead/stringers so water can get into the drain pipe and flow to the rear well near the transom (it will be plugged during use).

Yes, but it does not go under a stringer, it IS the stringer.

you fill in the hollow keel, like these picture of my aquasport....





then you glass over top the half PVC....

My concern is when I pour the floatation foam it may plug the small drain holes. All I can think so far is to use thick paper (like grocery bag material) or masking tape in hopes that it will dissolve if water is present.
I truly will try to totally seal the sole/deck to the hull/stringers/bulkheads, but if water does ever get in there I want to know about it and i would like to be-able to drain/dry it out.

For any compartments that will be sealed up, then dont worry about holes. You might only have one up front to drain an anchor compartment

[Boatfender]

Original design had seam down the center of deck/sole so I need something to tie to as I will be re-using the 3/4" HDO Plywood as it is in really shape. It had been replaced not all that long ago, but the stringers should have been done as well.