28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by tech_support »

I would fair over the glass as much as possible, build fairing over the glass. No way around using putty to make the surface able to take glass though.

its hard to see, but I used the micro-balloons on the round end of this coffin box - before glassing

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first fairing after glass

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second faring

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My father in law gets those kill wens buckets at the shop when they are done with them. I must have 20 of them!
those would be pretty handy for mixing a large amount of pour foam :!:

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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by DAYTRIP »

So how important do you think it is to fill the voids in the foam joel? Thinking of honeycomb which is full of voids the real goal is to separate the skins. The core isn't really providing structure, right?

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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by DAYTRIP »

I did a second fill of the gaps in the foam and then layed up to mats on the top and around the corners to start to stiffen things up. Once that cured I took the grinder to it last night and did a rough fairing. hard to say I am fairing with 24 grit but it definitely leveled it down a lot. My plan is to add a biax on the top then I am going to roll the whole thing on the side so that I will be working on the sides in the flat position which makes things a lot easier. Once I get the biax on I intend to build the back of the console so that I can glass that in and make it fully enclosed. Then I will basically demolish the mold from the inside.

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Last edited by DAYTRIP on Mon Apr 13, 2015 7:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by tech_support »

So how important do you think it is to fill the voids in the foam joel?
for a console, above the waterline, probably not very critical. Below water line, it can result in a world of trouble
Thinking of honeycomb which is full of voids the real goal is to separate the skins.
the honeycomb has a scrim on the surface that is melted/welded to the cells, so the effect when you glass over it, you are getting all the same surface area - thats the idea anyway
The core isn't really providing structure, right?
with composite sandwich, the core (properties) are critical to making it work. What makes the core work as a core and not just a form is its ability to stay attached to the skins. Voids on one side will make a place where skin could buckle.

For the console, I would not worry about it too much. Just make sure the scores are filled all around the areas where your going to mount that top

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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by DAYTRIP »

I am with you Joel. I did fill all the voids and that thing DRANK the resin so what ever I missed is full now. Holly cow it used a lot! My plan it to grind out the foam in the area of the mount and use that 18# density foam I have. It has zero flex so trying to get it in place now would be a bigger pain.

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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by Mbiggerstaff »

That is an amazing transformation. I had my doubts when I first saw the rough in. Shows how much of a rookie I am

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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by DAYTRIP »

Trust me, I always have my doubts but it is more a question of sanity! Lots of work but in love building boat parts for some crazy reason.

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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by DAYTRIP »

Got the sides glassed last night. Rolled the mold on it side which made it a lot easier. Plan on rolling to the other side tonight.

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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by tech_support »

if you are not already a faring pro, you will be after this :D

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Re: 28 BERTRAM OUTBOARD CONVERSION

Post by DAYTRIP »

Tell me about it! Bubbles and epoxy at 1/8" thickness should not be a problem you think? Was debatng on adding a little milled fiber on the first fill. What do you think?

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