Thanks capeman. In retrospect I should have followed my initial gut reaction to the dry fit and notched the rubrail to completely recess it. As it is, I will use it raised to provide termination for the forward and mid section covers while underway. Having it raised as it is makes it pretty easy to control water shedding.
Eric, the SC process for real boats is a bit more complex. My simplified process has a 45-? Day wait time (was told 90+ When I called in April. I'll have to decide if I risk floating her while in process or sit and pour for a few months. My fishing gear is mocking me so...
Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
- Jaysen
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
- Jaysen
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Notes:
1. Washing inside of boat with no drain let's you practice your bailing techniques.
2. Clean, wet boat looks much better then dusty, dry boat.
3. Ensure bailing kit contain one large and one small bailing bucket and at least two "soft" sponges in the largest size available.
4. DO NOT SPRAY THE SIDE YOU ARE ONLY 3" WAY FROM.
5. Sanding touch up prior to primer... will require cleanup.
6. Do your wash down sooner than later. I sure hope she's dried out in time for lunch time application of initial coat.
Anyone know the coverage of 1qt S3 primer? Can't find it anywhere on the can. Also open to any tips for application that don't require use of sprayer
1. Washing inside of boat with no drain let's you practice your bailing techniques.
2. Clean, wet boat looks much better then dusty, dry boat.
3. Ensure bailing kit contain one large and one small bailing bucket and at least two "soft" sponges in the largest size available.
4. DO NOT SPRAY THE SIDE YOU ARE ONLY 3" WAY FROM.
5. Sanding touch up prior to primer... will require cleanup.
6. Do your wash down sooner than later. I sure hope she's dried out in time for lunch time application of initial coat.
Anyone know the coverage of 1qt S3 primer? Can't find it anywhere on the can. Also open to any tips for application that don't require use of sprayer
- BrianC
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
I ended up using about 1/2 gallon to do the inside and out of an SK14 - 3 coats each. - Brian
SK14 completed ——— GV15 under construction
"...there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”
— The Wind in the Willows — Kenneth Grahame
— The Wind in the Willows — Kenneth Grahame
- cape man
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
I bought one of these for my SC 16. Works like a charm and stows easily. A LOT more effective than bailing with a bucket or can/sponge.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
I've got one of these but on my little boat I prefer a cut-off milk jug, which is free if you drink milk.
Tony
- Jaysen
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
My only concern with the jug method is that I need one hand on the tiller to "stay out of trouble". I agree that the jug is fast if you have two free hands. the pump can be clamped to a seat frame with a pick up hose making it a one handed operation. That said I to plan on keeping a jug or two on board.
Took a few minutes to make some "solo cup measuring devices" to make 10floz of primer in a batch. It seems unrealistic to me, but that "should" cover the hull. Once I get out of this meeting I plan to do the touch up sanding and final wash. That has me putting first coat on 5ish and hopefully second 7ish.
I've watched the BBC vid on BBC anti slip and am pretty confident I can get that to work out. Planning a 1" border on hull sides, 1.5" on frames, and 2" (1" either side) centerline. Will only have it on the bottom. Any recommendation on how many coats of anti-slip I should use?
Since I'll have lots of "watching paint dry" time I'll start planning my rudder. I'm pretty committed to a dagger style rudder but I want to make it a bit impact resistant. I also plan to make the blade 100% glass and the cassette wood and glass. Likely to be a straight blade for simplicity with a rounded ff end (like the dagger board).
I'm also thinking about remaking the dagger board as well. No good reason, but ... why not? I could match the rudder and dagger making it simple to create replacements. There are also a few things I'd like to add to the dagger to allow for easy pegging into place (which is based on what I'm planning for the rudder).
Mast/spar is going to have to wait till the hull is moved. No other place to build them. I think I'll be able to register the boat once painted and rudder installed. I think. It is a gov't org so...
Pictures once I get some paint on her.
Took a few minutes to make some "solo cup measuring devices" to make 10floz of primer in a batch. It seems unrealistic to me, but that "should" cover the hull. Once I get out of this meeting I plan to do the touch up sanding and final wash. That has me putting first coat on 5ish and hopefully second 7ish.
I've watched the BBC vid on BBC anti slip and am pretty confident I can get that to work out. Planning a 1" border on hull sides, 1.5" on frames, and 2" (1" either side) centerline. Will only have it on the bottom. Any recommendation on how many coats of anti-slip I should use?
Since I'll have lots of "watching paint dry" time I'll start planning my rudder. I'm pretty committed to a dagger style rudder but I want to make it a bit impact resistant. I also plan to make the blade 100% glass and the cassette wood and glass. Likely to be a straight blade for simplicity with a rounded ff end (like the dagger board).
I'm also thinking about remaking the dagger board as well. No good reason, but ... why not? I could match the rudder and dagger making it simple to create replacements. There are also a few things I'd like to add to the dagger to allow for easy pegging into place (which is based on what I'm planning for the rudder).
Mast/spar is going to have to wait till the hull is moved. No other place to build them. I think I'll be able to register the boat once painted and rudder installed. I think. It is a gov't org so...
Pictures once I get some paint on her.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Just as I suspected....................your work looks a lot better than you let on
Is there any way you can start the registration process now? It is going to make you nuts if you have a finished boat just sitting there waiting on paperwork.
Is there any way you can start the registration process now? It is going to make you nuts if you have a finished boat just sitting there waiting on paperwork.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
Duh. I never thought of mounting the hand pump. The one-handed operation--along with my cheapness--is one reason I favored the jug. You don't need two hands for it--it has a built in handle. I'll be interested in seeing your setup. On my V10, the middle seat does not have a limber hole so that water can't pile up in one end or the other. For that reason, a fixed mount pump wouldn't work unless I had two.
On the other hand, you're never going to need to bail--right?
Not sure what anti-skid you're talking about but KiwiGrip is very easy and comes out looking professional. I love that stuff.
On the other hand, you're never going to need to bail--right?
Not sure what anti-skid you're talking about but KiwiGrip is very easy and comes out looking professional. I love that stuff.
Tony
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
We will let the primer decide which of us is wrong!
No. I asked that several time. Boat much be complete. Painted and all non-removable parts affixed. Once I get her painted I should be good to start, but I suspect they are going to request pics of mast, rudder, etc. That rework will require even more time.
Only if I use an electric pump!terrulian wrote: ↑Wed May 17, 2017 1:34 pm Duh. I never thought of mounting the hand pump. The one-handed operation--along with my cheapness--is one reason I favored the jug. You don't need two hands for it--it has a built in handle. I'll be interested in seeing your setup. On my V10, the middle seat does not have a limber hole so that water can't pile up in one end or the other. For that reason, a fixed mount pump wouldn't work unless I had two.
On the other hand, you're never going to need to bail--right?
no limbers on my side either. my thought is that I will typically sit on the floor under sail. Sheet around peg next to rudder. This will allow access to dagger, rudder, snotter, brail and everything else to make an "oh sh!t!" moment less terrible. My thought was that the manual bilge would be on the center frame with the intake hose able to hit either side of the frame. The other option is 2 pumps... fore and aft. I've not committed to anything and really don't think I'll need that level of bailing until I'm actually outside the islands. Maybe end of the year.
BBC sells an additive. On the How To page there is a video showing how to use it with S3. I'll just mix a bit in with my EMC and... I probably don't need it, but I'd rather have it. I can see things getting "slicker than an eel's..." with a fish or three coming on board. Just smart to put it on walking surfaces. My biggest concern is actually ensuring that I have solid footing while moving around under sail. And by footing I mean hands and knees. I could see needing to stand up while fishing, but I didn't do that on the kayak so I can't imagine doing it on Lil Bit.
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Re: Jaysen's V12 -- 'Lil Bit' of everything fun
No fair taking a close up of the only bad spot just to prove your point
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