@BB Sig what do you mean by baseline? The fs17 and 19 plans I have show a baseline but the canoe doesn't.
I think I should be safe starting 3 inches each side of the seams and working out from there in 6 inch increments. Then adding holes if I need at 3 on the ends.
Honey doos kept me busy till 11 so not much progress to report :/
I put some 40grit on my little palm sander and attacked the paper I bonded to the seam.
Before: you can see there is paper embedded in the entire width of the resin......
Mostly sanded off: you can see the paper areas look like voids in the resin but its really just the white of the paper.
Done: ??? Good enough?
Weather Report: 11:30pm 56f was warmer during the day.
Still light enough in the tent to do rough work but not detailed. Lights ordered from Amazon for when it starts getting dark sooner in the evening.
Picture taken at 11.30 without a flash.
Narfi's HC14 build thread - LAUNCHED
- BB Sig
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Re: Narfi's HC14
I haven't seen these plans. I ASSumed there was a baseline. All four of the plans I have seen had a baseline. You have to have something to align the jigs. I know you've read the plans multiple times but I always find something that I missed previously (or forgot). Without a baseline, I can't imagine Jacques would design a jig.
Maybe Jacques will comment...
Maybe Jacques will comment...
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Re: Narfi's HC14
After looking at the study plans, I don't think it was ever meant to be built with a jig. This is a true stitch and glue build. The molds are throw a ways made for getting the shape right. I would bet that the plans say to build right side up and to support the ends as necessary. That's how the FS13 is designed to be built.
Let us know how Jacques meant it to be built...
Let us know how Jacques meant it to be built...
Re: Narfi's HC14
In the photo of the sanded seam (that won't display when I try to quote) I see the binder threads are not all sanded away yet. It's not a requirement, but to cut down on fairing you can sand until they are gone. You used biaxial tape on the seam, so the glass fibers are running 45 degrees to the seam, the binder threads are the white pieces running parallel to the seam and don't contribute strength. Since this is your practice boat you may want some practice sanding!
Hank
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Re: Narfi's HC14
I think you are right. It's a bit confusing though. Perhaps because I've read through the fa17/19 plans so much I read more into these than was there. I had planned to build this upside down like they are glassing the bottom first. But it seems like it's to be done inside first right side up.BB Sig wrote: ↑Tue Jul 11, 2017 5:54 am After looking at the study plans, I don't think it was ever meant to be built with a jig. This is a true stitch and glue build. The molds are throw a ways made for getting the shape right. I would bet that the plans say to build right side up and to support the ends as necessary. That's how the FS13 is designed to be built.
Let us know how Jacques meant it to be built...
It's confusing because the plans say order doesn't matter.
Guess I will do some more sanding in the evenings and think about it.
You say the binder string is supposed to be completely sanded off? I wondered about that..... the little fiberglass I have used before was woven tighter than that and didn't have a binder string. What are the differences and pros and cons?
I assume this is the right tape as it's what BBC sent me.
Re: Narfi's HC14
The boat is designed to be built without a jig but like mots of our boats, you can also build her on a jig if you prefer: all the dimensions are there.
I built a HC16 prototype without a jig and it came together fast and square.
I built a HC16 prototype without a jig and it came together fast and square.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
Re: Narfi's HC14
The structural fiberglass we use on these boats is a biaxial weave, and they sew it together with plain thread so it is easier to handle and doesn't come unravelled. Once the epoxy is set there is no longer a function for those threads and since they sit proud of the surface the consensus is to sand them down, but stop short of sanding into the glass. Look for that cross-hatch pattern to emerge on the sanded surface. The woven fiberglass typically doesn't use those threads.
Hank
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Re: Narfi's HC14
Thanks Jacques....
There are no measurements in the plans for doing it on a jig.
I cut the molds out but if I hard mounted them to my table I don't think heights would be right since there is no base measurement. Or is the bottom perfectly flat and I can measure from there?
There are no measurements in the plans for doing it on a jig.
I cut the molds out but if I hard mounted them to my table I don't think heights would be right since there is no base measurement. Or is the bottom perfectly flat and I can measure from there?
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Re: Narfi's HC14
No physical work on the canoe yesterday :/
It was Prime day on amazon though, so got a 6" electric sander, a small router, and a thermometer which gives inside/outside readings for the tent.
Read this in another thread and Sounds like it might be a good idea for me as well.
It was Prime day on amazon though, so got a 6" electric sander, a small router, and a thermometer which gives inside/outside readings for the tent.
Read this in another thread and Sounds like it might be a good idea for me as well.
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Re: Narfi's HC14
I missed out on that. I am wondering if it matters since my curve was on the bottom of that panel...
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