Eric's C21

[cape_fisherman]

I hate to even suggest this to you...but in these final stages I would rather see you using a longer board.

22"-24"

The shorter the board, the easier it will be to introduce new issues. At least...that's my theory.

[Eric1]

I hate to even suggest this to you...but in these final stages I would rather see you using a longer board.

22"-24"

The shorter the board, the easier it will be to introduce new issues. At least...that's my theory.

I'll give that a go. I'm open to what you guys recommend. I'm learning as best I can.

[pee wee]

What about flex, would a flexible board or padded board help at this stage?

[Eric1]

What about flex, would a flexible board or padded board help at this stage?

You must be reading my mind. I was thinking of trying the sanding sponges also.

[cape_fisherman]

What about flex, would a flexible board or padded board help at this stage?

Exactly...but that's what nearly all fairing should be done with...so in my mind it went without saying.

Make you a 2' board with handles...thin wood & stick the paper to it. Put small, single attachment point handles close to either end. Go to war...

[dbcrx]

Have to disagree there. I don't like using soft pads for paint prep. I have some and they do get used, but only in very certain circumstances. If you are sanding the primer to still flat out any very slight highs/lows then a soft pad will just follow those and sand a dip back in. Fairing can only be done with a firm block. Flexible, yes, but soft, NO.

The only time I will use soft pads is if I know the surface is perfectly faired and it's a complex, curvy shape that just needs a light sanding to key up.

[Aripeka Angler]

Have to disagree there. I don't like using soft pads for paint prep. I have some and they do get used, but only in very certain circumstances. If you are sanding the primer to still flat out any very slight highs/lows then a soft pad will just follow those and sand a dip back in. Fairing can only be done with a firm block. Flexible, yes, but soft, NO.

The only time I will use soft pads is if I know the surface is perfectly faired and it's a complex, curvy shape that just needs a light sanding to key up.

I agree with with just about everything you say and I know you are a professional painter.
Around the strakes and spray rails you have to use something flexible though.
That's just my opinion for what it's worth.

[Eric1]

I have to get another coat on. I plan to thin it down as I don't want a high build this time. The one thing I do know it the next round of sanding will be gentle! I have a pretty busy week ahead in the shop so I may not get a great deal done on the boat. Maybe I can at least get the primer on, we'll see.

[Jeff]

Send me some photos when possible!! Have a good weekend and try to stay out of the heat!! Jeff

[Eric1]

Round two. I mixed 16 ounces of part A to 4 ounces of part B. Then I thinned it 10% with 1 ounce of 97% Isopropyl alcohol and 1 ounce of water. Start time was 8:45 am, temp was 72 in the shop. I waited 15 minutes and started rolling. Started on this side from bow. Then I did the transom. I changed the roller and went back forward to start the other side. I only made it about halfway when the primer started rolling like crap. It was 11:30 and shop temp was at 80 degrees. I dumped about 4 oz of primer out.

Happy side.



Not so happy side. Primer was rolling out too thick about halfway down.



I suspect between thinning it and the increase in temperature caused the shorter work time. No big deal, just hate I wasted it.
I'll finish this off in the morning.