Eric's C21
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Re: Eric's C21
Eric I am pretty sure you know the church hymn "there’s a great day coming" That is what came to my mind when I saw you talking about putting the graphite to the bottom. Funny how the mind works
Re: Eric's C21
AMEN!
I had to stop just now. I got nauseous twice to the point of dang near losing lunch.
I'm calling that the end of the day. I'm almost finished with the first bottom side.
Re: Eric's C21
Hey Eric looking good. Keep it up guy and you'll be ready to flip in a short time. Don't forget the graphite coat will float the way you apply it, so roll and tip it carefully. You sure don't want to sand that black mess. Take care and good finishing.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: Eric's C21
Thank you Tom!
I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the graphite coat though. What do you mean by it floating the way it is applied?
- topwater
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Re: Eric's C21
I don't know if i would tip epoxy graphite but i would run a good heat gun over it to get it to flow out alittle.
Novi 23 finally launched !
- Jaysen
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Re: Eric's C21
I attempted to tip my graphite. I'll never tip anything again.
Use the CL method for graphite. Even I got mirrors from that. Hot day, hot shop, small batches. The only change I had to make was putting the graphite into the mixed epoxy instead of the other way around.
Although, I'm wondering if anything will stick to your mirror polished primer (that's a joke).
Re: Eric's C21
Definitely part of the plan and heck no to tipping it.
What batch size did you run? One of my concerns is blending from batch to batch. I have a lot of surface to cover and that does concern me.Jaysen wrote: ↑Thu Jul 27, 2017 9:17 am
I attempted to tip my graphite. I'll never tip anything again.
Use the CL method for graphite. Even I got mirrors from that. Hot day, hot shop, small batches. The only change I had to make was putting the graphite into the mixed epoxy instead of the other way around.
Although, I'm wondering if anything will stick to your mirror polished primer (that's a joke).
Re: Eric's C21
I do not mix the graphite in the fairing compound. I apply a light dust of graphite with a rag.
I am certain that mixing it will work but my method is used by all auto body shops and is easier.
I am certain that mixing it will work but my method is used by all auto body shops and is easier.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
- Jaysen
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Re: Eric's C21
My v12 took 2 3oz batches per layer. And that was too thick in each layer. My reason for 3oz was that I could get it out of the cup and on the hull fast enough. You MUST pre measure all your batches in separate cups (3 -- hardener in A, resin in B and graphite in C) and get it hot. Doing it again, I would use a heat gun or space heater to keep the pre measured stuff warm. My "quick mix" was
1. use one stick.
2. Stir hardener with stick (cup A)
3. Stir resin with same stick (cup B)
4. Scrape hardener into resin (cup A into B)
5. Stir about 10 times then start slowly adding graphite to resin (cup C into B)
6. WALK TO HULL WHILE STIrRING (cup B)
7. Pour onto hull in thin "zig zag".
8. Roll it out.
By the time I finished layer one, I could have started layer two, but I didn't. I changed roller after every layer. I "pre filled" roller with SLOW mixed epoxy to minimize soaking up graphite (mix 3oz/4" of roller and roll straight slow onto scrap ply)(also why I hesitated to go straight for second layer after first layer). My experience tells me that you for your c21 you will want three rollers ready to load and go as the roller will kick eventually. Better to have a spare frame with a cover and some pre measured straight ready to preload it than have your roller ruin the graphite.
I didn't need a heat gun but you may want one to smooth the seams between mixed patches. Small and fast seems to reduce that border line. Others used the gun to reduce bubbles. If I had any I didn't care or notice or both. The graphite is the ONLY finish work I was happy with.
And to reiterate a point CL made DO NOT try to dry sand it. I wouldn't bother sanding it at all, but you are ... you. Sand wet.
1. use one stick.
2. Stir hardener with stick (cup A)
3. Stir resin with same stick (cup B)
4. Scrape hardener into resin (cup A into B)
5. Stir about 10 times then start slowly adding graphite to resin (cup C into B)
6. WALK TO HULL WHILE STIrRING (cup B)
7. Pour onto hull in thin "zig zag".
8. Roll it out.
By the time I finished layer one, I could have started layer two, but I didn't. I changed roller after every layer. I "pre filled" roller with SLOW mixed epoxy to minimize soaking up graphite (mix 3oz/4" of roller and roll straight slow onto scrap ply)(also why I hesitated to go straight for second layer after first layer). My experience tells me that you for your c21 you will want three rollers ready to load and go as the roller will kick eventually. Better to have a spare frame with a cover and some pre measured straight ready to preload it than have your roller ruin the graphite.
I didn't need a heat gun but you may want one to smooth the seams between mixed patches. Small and fast seems to reduce that border line. Others used the gun to reduce bubbles. If I had any I didn't care or notice or both. The graphite is the ONLY finish work I was happy with.
And to reiterate a point CL made DO NOT try to dry sand it. I wouldn't bother sanding it at all, but you are ... you. Sand wet.
Re: Eric's C21
Jacques, I was referring to the epoxy graphite mix for the bottom. Not for fairing. Thanks for looking out for me.
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