Hey Jaysen, Look for the words "builder's tips" in small letters on the forum header. He doesn't say to reduce the graphite. I don't think the black dye I have is compatible with the Marine epoxy. I rolled that panel right before lunch and when I checked it a 5:15 it still had a slight tack. Heat gun was a plus. Next week we are suppose to have highs in the low 80's. That means I will have to warm my resin in the mornings.Jaysen wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 7:00 pm I haven't read the CL tips in a while but I think:
1. You should reduce graphite in each layer by 30%
2. The warmed resin/heat gun addresses bubbles. Heat gun pointed right at bubbles but fat enough away that it doesn't ripple the surface.
CL was pretty adamant about this being the one time heat was your friend.
Eric's C21
Re: Eric's C21
Re: Eric's C21
Eric nice meeting you and your brother and nephew yesterday.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: Eric's C21
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
- glossieblack
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 4107
- Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 1:28 pm
- Location: Australia
Re: Eric's C21
Eric, you're keeping those of us avidly following you build in suspense When will the graphite be finished!? When's the flip!? :
Informative article that thanks Tom. It seems counter-intuitive that the world's most sophisticated navy has been colliding with merchant ships recently. The article provides a plausible explanation why.
Informative article that thanks Tom. It seems counter-intuitive that the world's most sophisticated navy has been colliding with merchant ships recently. The article provides a plausible explanation why.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
-
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 8938
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
- Location: Kasilof, Alaska
Re: Eric's C21
By my count there is at least three more rounds of graphite and sanding to go before we can even hope for a flip
Re: Eric's C21
Terrible to see more confirmation of our suspicions Tom. SECNAV and MCON should be all over this. Operational readiness goes far beyond the equipment. The sailors must be awake for all the gear to have worth. I sat many watches in CIC, not because it was my job,but I wanted to learn all I could about our electronics. Work an 8 hour day then spend 4 or more hours watching a radar screen tracking everything out to #### nautical miles and you would understand. Tom I know you get it but civilians have no clue. Sailors should be known for endurance not their ability for swabbing decks. I hope the NAVY gets on top of this jiffy quick before more lives are lost.
As for my build, She awaits the final coat of graphite. Sorry to disappoint you Fuzz, I hope you didn't wager to much money on that.
I have been waiting for a window to open up on one of my lathes to run some motor components used in high power rockets. I got the first operation set up Friday. It will be late Tuesday or early Wednesday before I finish the last operation. I'll post pictures if you like.
So that would leave me ready for paint. However, After the gracious purchase of additional plywood from Tom I have to make a choice.
Should I stall the paint and add a wooden rub rail or go with my initial plan and proceed to paint and use the Tessilmare rub rail?
I really like the clean look of the Tessilmare rail and I will most likely stick to my plan.
As for my build, She awaits the final coat of graphite. Sorry to disappoint you Fuzz, I hope you didn't wager to much money on that.
I have been waiting for a window to open up on one of my lathes to run some motor components used in high power rockets. I got the first operation set up Friday. It will be late Tuesday or early Wednesday before I finish the last operation. I'll post pictures if you like.
So that would leave me ready for paint. However, After the gracious purchase of additional plywood from Tom I have to make a choice.
Should I stall the paint and add a wooden rub rail or go with my initial plan and proceed to paint and use the Tessilmare rub rail?
I really like the clean look of the Tessilmare rail and I will most likely stick to my plan.
-
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 8938
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
- Location: Kasilof, Alaska
Re: Eric's C21
Dang it all............might have to go back to work to pay off my betEric1 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:02 am
As for my build, She awaits the final coat of graphite. Sorry to disappoint you Fuzz, I hope you didn't wager to much money on that.
Should I stall the paint and add a wooden rub rail or go with my initial plan and proceed to paint and use the Tessilmare rub rail?
I really like the clean look of the Tessilmare rail and I will most likely stick to my plan.
If it were me I would put the rubber rub rail on it. I would love to put one on my build but it costs more to ship it than it does to buy it for me
-
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 6724
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2007 9:13 pm
- Location: Dade City, Florida
Re: Eric's C21
The use of both elements provides a more finished look, at least in my opinion.Eric1 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:02 am
So that would leave me ready for paint. However, After the gracious purchase of additional plywood from Tom I have to make a choice.
Should I stall the paint and add a wooden rub rail or go with my initial plan and proceed to paint and use the Tessilmare rub rail?
I really like the clean look of the Tessilmare rail and I will most likely stick to my plan.
I put a 2" tall x 3/4" thick laminated rubrail of hardwood mahogany on my XF20 before I installed the Taco rubrail.
Water also seems to drip off very cleanly with this setup. Kind of like the function of the eave drip sub strip on a wood fascia board...
Richard
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
Bare Bones build thread...If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water. - Loren Eiseley
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146
Re: Eric's C21
You know what? This is a good idea.Aripeka Angler wrote: ↑Tue Aug 29, 2017 5:47 am The use of both elements provides a more finished look, at least in my opinion.
I put a 2" tall x 3/4" thick laminated rubrail of hardwood mahogany on my XF20 before I installed the Taco rubrail.
Water also seems to drip off very cleanly with this setup. Kind of like the function of the eave drip sub strip on a wood fascia board...
I have gone back and forth over installing the rail before the flip. My concern is matching the edge of the boat to the rail. I thought this would be easier to do after the flip. However I would not have the strength and stiffness the rail provides during the flip. Another concern is the sides have pulled away from the frames with all of the epoxy and glass and I have thought it would "set" this by putting the rub rail on.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 6 guests