The top alignment is easy with a flush cut router bit. The bottom is the one that will drive YOU mad(der). Scribe your hull with the bottom rail mark then Install to that. Let the router deal with the upper rail. You will want to fair and sand the rail bottom quite a bit to meet your standards. Much easier to do all the before the flip.
How far did the side pull? Remember this is just glass and expoxy. If the hull lines are good and fair "extend" the frame with thickened epoxy and glass.
Eric's C21
- Jaysen
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Re: Eric's C21
Re: Eric's C21
Eric I believe if you read your building instructions that you will find that the wood rub rail is a structural part of the C boats. I know it was in the plans of my C17 and C19 plans. They were 3/4 by 1 1x2 and could be made out of 1/4" ply 3 layers.
Tom
Tom
Last edited by TomW1 on Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: Eric's C21
Yes
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
- peter-curacao
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Re: Eric's C21
Stephen I flipped my CS with only the aft part of the rubrail installed, bow section had nothing, just leave your frames in during the flip and you should be safe. I did my rubrail same as Richard and works pretty nice as he describes, if you want to do it as you describe and your rail is structural as Tom thinks it is, just make an inner rubrail, this should be as structural as an outer rubrail I think, just ask Jacques to be sure.
Edit: with inner rubrail I mean on the inside of the boat under the deck
Edit: with inner rubrail I mean on the inside of the boat under the deck
Re: Eric's C21
Peter that is a very good alternative. Thank Youpeter-curacao wrote: ↑Tue Aug 29, 2017 2:37 pm Stephen I flipped my CS with only the aft part of the rubrail installed, bow section had nothing, just leave your frames in during the flip and you should be safe. I did my rubrail same as Richard and works pretty nice as he describes, if you want to do it as you describe and your rail is structural as Tom thinks it is, just make an inner rubrail, this should be as structural as an outer rubrail I think, just ask Jacques to be sure.
Edit: with inner rubrail I mean on the inside of the boat under the deck
Re: Eric's C21
I finished up my machine work before lunch so I can get back to my boat tomorrow. I plan to roll the last coat of graphite on in the morning.
I just ordered the 30 mm black Tessilmare rub rail from Jeff. I am going to cut a 1/4" wooden rail from the 6566 Meranti I got from Tom. I want to have the Tessilmare rail in hand to determine the width I want the Meranti to be. Once I have that determined and cut I'll have to clamp it to the boat and strike the line on the sides. Then I'll have to remove it and cut the primer with 80 grit to ensure a good bond with the epoxy glue. Then I'll seal the plywood with a coat or two with epoxy.
Who knows I may get paint on her before Halloween!
I just ordered the 30 mm black Tessilmare rub rail from Jeff. I am going to cut a 1/4" wooden rail from the 6566 Meranti I got from Tom. I want to have the Tessilmare rail in hand to determine the width I want the Meranti to be. Once I have that determined and cut I'll have to clamp it to the boat and strike the line on the sides. Then I'll have to remove it and cut the primer with 80 grit to ensure a good bond with the epoxy glue. Then I'll seal the plywood with a coat or two with epoxy.
Who knows I may get paint on her before Halloween!
- glossieblack
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Re: Eric's C21
That's a good job plan Eric, and the Meranti and Tessilmare combo will look sharp.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
Re: Eric's C21
Thanks Glossie.glossieblack wrote: ↑Thu Aug 31, 2017 5:33 am That's a good job plan Eric, and the Meranti and Tessilmare combo will look sharp.
That's enough motivation to get this started today. I'm not moving well this morning.
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Re: Eric's C21
Great decision.Eric1 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 30, 2017 3:13 pm I finished up my machine work before lunch so I can get back to my boat tomorrow. I plan to roll the last coat of graphite on in the morning.
I just ordered the 30 mm black Tessilmare rub rail from Jeff. I am going to cut a 1/4" wooden rail from the 6566 Meranti I got from Tom. I want to have the Tessilmare rail in hand to determine the width I want the Meranti to be. Once I have that determined and cut I'll have to clamp it to the boat and strike the line on the sides. Then I'll have to remove it and cut the primer with 80 grit to ensure a good bond with the epoxy glue. Then I'll seal the plywood with a coat or two with epoxy.
Who knows I may get paint on her before Halloween!
Richard
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
Bare Bones build thread...If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water. - Loren Eiseley
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146
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