Glassed the inside with the rest of the 12oz I had. Once this cures will be installing the stringers and bulkheads.
My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine Splashed 6/15!
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Re: My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine
Did you test fit the frames at this point? The sides tend to bow outward, forcing the floor of the hull upwards. Being that it has been glassed now might affect that making it hard to get it back into a "fair" shape. This is why it is good to glue a rub rail on before the flip. It helps keep the shape.
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Re: My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine
Yeah test fit the frames before. There was a little gap at the keel when it was upside down that I didn't notice before glassing. Once it was flipped we braced the bottom in the right places and it corrected the issue. Going to use ratchet straps to pull the sides in a bit when I install the frames. Then will do the rub rail. I made some uneven cuts on the sides and putting the rub rail on upside down would have made it harder to line up. Now that its flipped I can see the high and low spots.
Re: My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine
When you pull the sides in with ratchet straps you might create waves down the side of the boat. You can check with a batten laid along the top of the hull side. Unless the sides are badly splayed consider leaving the sides alone and epoxying in small pieces of plywood to fill the gaps. Once the frames are glassed in there will be no structural issues.
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Re: My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine
It looks like we might not even need to use the ratchet straps very much at all there's only a very slight gap. Even though we didn't put the rub rail on we did some preliminary fairing and I think that stiffened up the hull enough to keep it mostly in shape
Re: My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine
Johnstonjosh,
Swglenn is correct. When you attempt to pull in the sides with ratchet straps you will more than likely create flat spots. An easy way to combat this is to install your rubrails first. This will help disperse the load evenly across the hull once you start to ratchet and eliminate any potential flat spots.
-Reid
Swglenn is correct. When you attempt to pull in the sides with ratchet straps you will more than likely create flat spots. An easy way to combat this is to install your rubrails first. This will help disperse the load evenly across the hull once you start to ratchet and eliminate any potential flat spots.
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
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Re: My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine
The build is close to being done! I had a pricey mistake though. I cut the forward deck out so I could get the 3rd piece of the transom cut. I thought i had left enough material...i didnt! OOPS. There was about an inch gap at either side. Rather than trying to fill it all in, I got another sheet of fir marine ply at a lumber yard in Cocoa that sells it. It was more expensive and nowhere near as nice as the Meranti. I scribed the curves by laying the sheet on top of the hull, then cut 1/4 inch inside that line to account for the hull thickness. Fits like a glove now!
All bulkheads are in, the stringers are getting glassed tomorrow and supports for the deck are mostly installed. I just need to start buying the accessories for it.
All bulkheads are in, the stringers are getting glassed tomorrow and supports for the deck are mostly installed. I just need to start buying the accessories for it.
Re: My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine
Nice fix and sounds like it did not kill the bank!! Get us some photos this weekend!! Jeff
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Re: My FS18 Straight Shear hard chine
I hope you are planning on glassing over that fir. While good stuff it does need glass on it to keep it from checking.
Your boat is looking good. I have noticed in some pictures there is a bronze tint to it sort of different looking but I like it
Your boat is looking good. I have noticed in some pictures there is a bronze tint to it sort of different looking but I like it
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