AD 14 KIELGE

[gonandkarl]

Hi,
I like the idea with a timber beam but my sail boat is so small I have to think very careful where to store whatever is not in use and in an emergency like a sudden gale the drop boards should be closed anyway and are ready to lift the centreboard while it would most probably difficult to place the beam there additionally. The drop boards I found out I can store under the cabin tops hatch cover if it is pushed open towards the mast and there is a small fence around it on which the hatch cover slides and so they cannot fall sideways overboard . I can still put it there with that round deck block screwed to the top drop board and the block and tackle attached to it. The other situation when I need to lift the centreboard is if I want to beach the boat and this can be done slowly with enough time to place the washboards into their slot. As I am a novice sailer with hardly any experience I do not know when one should lower the centreboard fully down or to half down or change between the 2 of Jacques designed positions. I hope I find out the difference between the 2 centreboard positions and when I have to apply them. My intention is to try it in light winds to have plenty of time for any manoeuvre. If I find out it is a nuisance always to place the washboards in their place I definitely might try my luck with a timber beam.
For the start I am happy that I can lift the board without hurting my back and I am so thankful for all your advises that will make my sailing a time of real bliss where nothing can go wrong any more because everything is being thought out thoroughly during the building stage.
So I hope.
Greetings from Karl

[das boot]

Looks real good that idea on raising the keel should work fine. I have never tried sailing with my keel 1/2 up i just put it all the way down after I lanch the boat and leave it there if I am running up on the beech I just pull it all the way up . The travel I use on my boom sounds much the same as the way I did it it works fine. I hook it on one side with a clevis so I can remove it if I am running with the motor that way the cockpit is fully open for moving around this works for me.

[terrulian]

Karl,
Thanks very much for the detailed report and the summary of your thought process.
I'm not sure of Jacques' thinking on the two positions of the centerboard. Dinghy sailors pull the centerboard up when off the wind to reduce the amount of "wetted surface", which produces a small amount of drag. However, their boards contain no ballast. I've no doubt Jacques has the numbers and the boat will be just fine with the centerboard in the 1/2-way position; however, my guess is that, like das boot, you'll find that you just put the keel down and leave it there.
Our Catalina 22, which has a similar arrangement, can be set in any position merely by how much you let out the winch. However, I always just leave it down. If you were a serious racer, you'd pull it up off the wind. Are you a serious racer? Me neither. The centerboard in the fully down position provides lateral resistance when sailing upwind, which reduces leeway. It is not necessary off the wind, when leeway is not much of an issue; and since the weight is still below the center of gravity, it still provides stability.
As you say, when you get ready to beach it, or when getting ready to put it back on the trailer, you'll have plenty of time to get the keel up with your arrangement.

I've followed your progress with interest and am awaiting splash day!

[Bogieman]

HI Karl,

Sounds like everything was very well thought out.

[Bogieman]

Hi Karl, (and George too)

I'm ready to put my CB case together and install the pivot assembly (threaded bolt & sleeve), but I have a question about something that's a little confusing in the plans. The plans say the length of the sleeve has to be equal to the size of the case, including the width added by the backing plates on each side of the case... I'm OK with that part, but then it says the sleeve has to be inserted from inside the case. I don't see how that's even possible! It seems to me the only way the sleeve could be inserted from inside is if the sleeve is the same diameter as the inside of the case. If the length of the sleeve is to be flush with the outside face of the backing plates then both the sleeve and bolt could be inserted from the outside with not trouble then when the washers and nuts are added the nuts could be tightened down until they meet the end of the sleeve. Am In missing something here?

Thanks for your help

Bogie

[gonandkarl]

Hi Bogieman,
Yes you understood it completely correct. The sleeve you can only put through the pivot holes of the trunk ( there are 2 one in each trunk wall ) from one of the sides. I think the most important thing is that the length of it is from the left backing plate to the right one if you glued some onto the case. I put just today the silicone onto it and then the big washers over the threaded stainless steel rod and then I hand tightened the nuts and 2 hours later with 2 no 19 spanners until I could not turn them any more because the washers were pressing onto the sleeve each side and that is hopefully watertight.
This talk of inside means you have to align the centreboard inside the case with its hole exactly with the 2 holes of the centreboard case and then you can push the sleeve through and the threaded rod inside the sleeve. I have the rod sticking out on both sides about 1 1/2 inches. I would advise you, before you close the case test lie the board into it lay and clamp the side onto it which you will later glue and push also the sleeve through it . If you battle to push it through, the holes are maybe a tiny bit too tight. Now you can correct that easily when the centreboard trunk is installed and the sole of the boat is also in there all you can do then is push the sleeve through going in there over the inspection holes of the sole. No more place to drill the holes any wider. George had a good idea to get the centreboard into place with a very thin steel wire and a handle on each side pulling it up from inside the cabin. I just pushed a medium long screwdriver from the left side into the hole while my son was pushing the centreboard by hand up from under the boat. Once I had the screwdriver completely through the case and board I pushed the sleeve over it from the right side and let it follow through the holes while pulling the screwdriver slowly out again at the left side. Tomorrow I will post a few pictures and they may be clearer than my description.
Greetings from Karl

[Bogieman]

Hi Karl.

Thank you very much! It is as I thought. The plans make it a little confusing, but I'm willing to accept that it's maybe just me. Your detailed explanation helps me a lot.

I have one more question: Can you tell me where to find the measurement or explanation of how to cut / sand the angle at the top end of the centerboard pivot end? It's the angled flat spot that appears to act as a stop or catch on the pivot end. Right now mine is still rounded.



Can't wait to see your latest pics.

Bogie

[gonandkarl]

Hi Bogieman,
I think on plan D 264_8 Appendices it says a radius of 127 mm which in my case was not quite correct because the centre of the circle to a radius of 127 is not where the pivot hole is. As the board gets swung around the pivot I rounded it by what I felt is correct top and especially at the bottom. The front of the board is straight and if it is left hanging completely down this straight part will bang into the vertical piece of the centreboard case and could damage it. I do not know if this is the ideal stop if the board should slam down and therefore I rounded it so that should it happen the straight part of the board is also nearly at the straight forward end of the case. The whole thing started with the incorrect pivot. I remember having encountered your problem in 2013 when I posted:

Talking about plans I have a problem with B264/8 Appendages. At the bottom on the left side are 8 points Centre board case.
Can You tell me what it says on your plan under 5. I ordered metric plans and there it says 5. Cut 51 mm slot through bottom.
(That would be 2 inches ?!?)
Even that it says one should not study all detail before the start of the building, that is exactly what is the only thing one can do before the wood arrives.

and then I got the answer of Bondo which was this:

Yes my plans call for a 2" slot but the instructions disagree on this step. They recommend installing the trunk first. I would install the trunk first. I had a problem with the centerboard pattern and the centerboard trunk as drawn. So far I am the only one to have had a problem but there was a conflict for me. The centerboard pivot is drawn incorrectly. There is a correction for that. Detail #8 suggests rounding from the outside but the keel shoe still needs to be applied.

Greetings from Karl

[gonandkarl]

Hi,
Here a picture with the inspection lids in the sole to be able to mount the sleeve in the pivot holes and the front one to put portable ballast under the sole.



Trunk and case united for the test.



and here fully down



You can do this test having everything lying flat on the floor with the lid ( side of the trunk ) not yet attached.

Unfortunately I have no detailed pictures before I assembled the centreboard case.

Greetings from Karl

Greetings from Karl

[Bogieman]

Thanks Karl. I think I'm just going to leave the pivot end round. Now I'm trying to find a local store that carries a threaded SS bolt that is at least 5" long and a SS sleeve that is 3 1/2 long. So far no luck. I'll probably have to order something online. I like (and will use) your idea of clamping everything together and testing the entire assembly while it's lying on a table top. Also, I made a little mistake on the CB case by adding a spacer to the forward vertical portion on the swing end of the CB case. This has caused me to have to sand some of the radius off the curved / aft portion of the keel (maybe a half inch) so it can fit. I don't think it's a big deal.

I'm planning to install the biaxial cloth to the inside of the hull this weekend.

Can't wait to see your next posts

Bogie