82 handmade GRP hull

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
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nel.edgar
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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

Post by nel.edgar »

fallguy1000 wrote: Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:28 am Clamps sound too small. 3x6mm is too small

No on the xtra glas.

Glass schedule sounds light.

*If you are gonna bracket; the bracket company will give you the spec, layup, etc.
yup..its an error...i mean 3x6 cm ...

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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

Post by IpswichGrady »

Since my project is on hold due to the cold climate I have not been here for a while to see what people are doing. Edgar is it? your project looks like a lot of work but I commend you on what I have seen. The demo is a ton of work and the transom grinding looks very nice. From my experience, listen to these guys... they have helped me with invaluable information! Boat builder central has provided me with my epoxy, materials and additional invaluable help for my job. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

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You want to make sure the inside face of the existing laminate is rough for best bonding and no loose material. Do not sand higher than 40 grit.

I don't like using milled fibers between layers and trust the epoxy and cabosil more. You want bond strength and I am not convinced more fillers like milled glass achieves that. Milled glass also means you'll need to get pretty pasty to avoid sagging by the time you get the inside face buttered. And cabosil and epoxy go on like a dream with a bee trowel.

Whenever I bond two layers; I butter both with a vee trowel. The bigger the vee the more mud you need in a hurry. I would say something on the order of 3/32 and thick enough so it doesn't sag. 5/32 uses a lot more epoxy a lot. For a 12 oz batch of mixed epoxy; I add about 28 ounces by volume of cabosil. Mix it on a board at the end with a 4" flat trowel and if it will stay up in a pile; it is good.

Even clamping is also good; so a couple of 2x4s with bolts is good. You want about a millimeter or two in the final bondline. Then pull the bolts after 2-3 hours.

There is a good writeup here on transom repairs. Grab a beverage and go through it. If you can't find it; ask.

Another thing to do is make sure to avoid leaving a raw plywood edge exposed at the end. Those result in delamination. It is preferred to wrap the glass over the top for strength, but if you want to avoid the gelcoated exterior; you could mask it off and just wrap the top. Or, you could apply a top tape after the transom cures. Give yourself a nice radius on the transom inside for that. Then you will seal the plies. Make sure to remove any masking tape on the gelcoat before the epoxy fully sets and stand by with acetone to mitigate drips.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

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nel.edgar
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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

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IpswichGrady wrote: Fri Nov 30, 2018 10:42 am Since my project is on hold due to the cold climate I have not been here for a while to see what people are doing. Edgar is it? your project looks like a lot of work but I commend you on what I have seen. The demo is a ton of work and the transom grinding looks very nice. From my experience, listen to these guys... they have helped me with invaluable information! Boat builder central has provided me with my epoxy, materials and additional invaluable help for my job. Looking forward to seeing your progress!
Thanks for the advice Grady, its been about one year that i found this forum and it really has helped me all this information on the posts...i really have read a lot here and found diferent opinions but the best think is all the help i see on questions that everyone does give. i know its gonna be a long road till the end of this project..but all the advices and help that ppl give here, we will see the end one day!

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nel.edgar
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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

Post by nel.edgar »

fallguy1000 wrote: Fri Nov 30, 2018 11:30 am
I don't like using milled fibers between layers and trust the epoxy and cabosil more. You want bond strength and I am not convinced more fillers like milled glass achieves that. Milled glass also means you'll need to get pretty pasty to avoid sagging by the time you get the inside face buttered. And cabosil and epoxy go on like a dream with a bee trowel.

Whenever I bond two layers; I butter both with a vee trowel. The bigger the vee the more mud you need in a hurry. I would say something on the order of 3/32 and thick enough so it doesn't sag. 5/32 uses a lot more epoxy a lot. For a 12 oz batch of mixed epoxy; I add about 28 ounces by volume of cabosil. Mix it on a board at the end with a 4" flat trowel and if it will stay up in a pile; it is good.

Even clamping is also good; so a couple of 2x4s with bolts is good. You want about a millimeter or two in the final bondline. Then pull the bolts after 2-3 hours.

There is a good writeup here on transom repairs. Grab a beverage and go through it. If you can't find it; ask.

Another thing to do is make sure to avoid leaving a raw plywood edge exposed at the end. Those result in delamination. It is preferred to wrap the glass over the top for strength, but if you want to avoid the gelcoated exterior; you could mask it off and just wrap the top. Or, you could apply a top tape after the transom cures. Give yourself a nice radius on the transom inside for that. Then you will seal the plies. Make sure to remove any masking tape on the gelcoat before the epoxy fully sets and stand by with acetone to mitigate drips.
ive tried somme diferent mixes and the best fillet tests i made was Epoxy mixed with milled fiber and cabosil...it was the only fillet test that i didnt see sagging...the other ones like epoxy and cabosil it always presented somme run-off..maybe it was the quality of the resin or i just didnt mix enough cabosil to make it thick...

fallguy1000
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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

Post by fallguy1000 »

You just didn't mix enough.

Make sure to try the vee trowel on milled fibers.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

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nel.edgar
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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

Post by nel.edgar »

After somme search of bracket prices in my town,i realized that its overpriced for my budget..so my option is cut the transom like the image and put there a Yamaha 100Hp.. after my search on the internet, i found a yamaha rigging guide with dimensions.

- At black line, the future cut for the new transom
-blue arrow is the water line height (is at 50 cm)
- yellow arrow, the height described in the rigging guide (66 cm)

4129

i found this fotos of fiberglass work on google, i think they are from this forum, but its my idea of what i want to do in this boat..

4130
4131

fallguy1000
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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

Post by fallguy1000 »

Okay, so you are using xtra long ob? And still only 16 freeboard?

Are these correct?
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

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nel.edgar
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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

Post by nel.edgar »

fallguy1000 wrote: Fri Nov 30, 2018 3:46 pm Okay, so you are using xtra long ob? And still only 16 freeboard?

Are these correct?
i dont know if this is 100% correct..found the manual on internet so... here is fotos of what i have...

4140
4141

i sended an email to an outboard distributor to know if this measures are corret here in Europe..

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Re: 82 handmade GRP hull

Post by fallguy1000 »

663 is extra long shaft ob
536 is long shaft ob

Are you buying extra long version?
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