Panga 20 Build
Re: Panga 20 Build
FluidDynamic, nice progress and always great to see family involvement!!!! Jeff
Re: Panga 20 Build
Your build looks great.
Glad you got the fairness sorted.
I am curious about the tabs? I thought that you could usually get away with putting thickened epoxy in the gaps between the wire ties, then pulling the ties and filling the gaps with more thickened epoxy and then taping the seams in one go? Or did you feel the panels were under a lot of tension?
Glad you got the fairness sorted.
I am curious about the tabs? I thought that you could usually get away with putting thickened epoxy in the gaps between the wire ties, then pulling the ties and filling the gaps with more thickened epoxy and then taping the seams in one go? Or did you feel the panels were under a lot of tension?
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Re: Panga 20 Build
Tabbing is not the way I would be doing this work.
Tabbing was done on my build, but it is entirely different method.
There is almost zero fairing where we did tabbing, for one thing and we don't stitch in a female frame.
I would stop tabbing until Mertens speaks.
Tabbing was done on my build, but it is entirely different method.
There is almost zero fairing where we did tabbing, for one thing and we don't stitch in a female frame.
I would stop tabbing until Mertens speaks.
Re: Panga 20 Build
Each method is valid.
When spot welds are sufficient to hold the panels in place, tabs are not needed. They are needed only when the panels try to jump out of place or when the gap is a little too wide for spot welds. That seems to be the case here. Tabs or not tabs, the boat will be just as strong.
When spot welds are sufficient to hold the panels in place, tabs are not needed. They are needed only when the panels try to jump out of place or when the gap is a little too wide for spot welds. That seems to be the case here. Tabs or not tabs, the boat will be just as strong.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: Panga 20 Build
If worried about fairness you can always cut some glass to fill between the tabs and level it all out. Probably not needed as there will be a lot of glass in that area but it could be done
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Re: Panga 20 Build
Yup, and you can hotcoat fill before taping as well. This also eliminates or reduces air pockets.
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Re: Panga 20 Build
Too late now. It's all tabbed except for the keel seam. It was under and still is under a lot of tension. At what point would I put on the rub rails? At frames A, B, and C, I had to use screws to bend and hold the hulls around the panel. I was just curious to see what would happen if I unscrewed one and I could see the panel bowing out where the rub rails go. My question is how do I control the side panels from bowing out further away from the frames as I unscrew everything? Once I fiberglass the entire hull and epoxy the areas on the side panels that won't receive glass, will this control some of the tendacy to want to push out?
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Re: Panga 20 Build
Epoxy with no glass is not going to do anything for you. You may have to have the rub rails installed first to keep things in shape? Having never built a Panga do not take my guess as gospel
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Re: Panga 20 Build
I was thinking about glassing the whole sides even though the plans only called for glass to be up part of the sides.
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Re: Panga 20 Build
Not sure if it is needed but it would help. Glass is way stronger in tinsel compared to compression. If you glass the outside the glass will not want to stretch and let the sides pouch out as much. I think I would still install the rub rails before flipping.
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