Panga 20 Build

[jacquesmm]

Install the rubrail before flipping the hull and the shape will not change. I think that's what I recommend in the building notes.
In some cases, I recommend a temporary rubrail = a batten clamped to the sheer. You can remove it after flipping the hull. The rubrail gets in the way of sanding with a long board. It's your choice.

[FluidDynamic]

Starting to regret tabbing with fiberglass. Sanding is tough. Please tell me when I get to the point I'm using quickfair to fair the hull, it sands easier.

[fallguy1000]

I would probably only sand the high areas of the tabs and any not bonded to the wood for sure.

Then measure the spaces between tabs and glass up that width, no overlaps.

So, say you have 6", then glass inside the 6", but never overlap. To make future fairing easier, the tab lengths can be similar.

Then sand again.

Then apply a straight cabosil/epoxy thixo mix over the tabs where you will tape. Apply with a nice wide trowel like a 9" or so. Pass the mixture over the chine the wide way. For a 4" tape; go about 3" per side.

Then run your seams to spec provided by JM while the thixo is just starting to set. Consolidate well with a good consolidation roller.

The reason for thixo is to avoid air pockets in the spaces between tabs.

If not clear on this, ask away and plenty of support.

I have not seen the tabbing method used, but I am assuming you still will meet the tape specification..

I am qualified to help you mitigate the likelihood of air.

Using thixo mixes will reduce air pockets. If you see any larger air pockets; you MUST inject them. A dime size air pocket on the bottom will create a place for hydraulic erosion. All preventable, but easier to error now with tabbing.

If you wish to avoid more tabbing; you can also just skip the additional tabs and just apply the thixo before taping.

If, oth, you overlapped any tabs, get a flap disk and sand them off I'd say. Each layer of tape is about 0.040" and you don't want any xtra layers.

[FluidDynamic]

Will I need to sand the epoxy in between the tabs that I've already placed? See the epoxy in between the tape in pic. I was under impression that I would need to sand this before applying anything between the tape that I've placed already.

[TomTom]

A variable speed sander polisher like this https://www.makita.co.nz/products/model/9237CB will be your best friend...

[FluidDynamic]

I have one, is the buffer just to knock the shine off?

[Fuzz]

I have one, is the buffer just to knock the shine off?

If you already have a sander/polisher you need these. They will throw a lot of dust but they will make short work of the heavy sanding.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/3m-gree ... e-disc-751
And you will need this also
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/3m-8510 ... read-85105
Having the right tools will make a ton of difference. There better options but they are lots more money and may not be worth it to you for just one project.
The link to the sanding disks did not work but I like the 3M hook and loop in either 36 or 40 grit. They are a little spendy but they work.

[FluidDynamic]

Yes, a random orbital sander is not cutting it for the heavy sanding.

[fallguy1000]

Will I need to sand the epoxy in between the tabs that I've already placed? See the epoxy in between the tape in pic. I was under impression that I would need to sand this before applying anything between the tape that I've placed already.

Yes. This can be done very quickly with something like 36-60 grit paper.

I use a festool quarter sheet sander for all my sanding.

Now n then a cheap random orbital with vacuum as well.

You can pick up a cheap ryobi? i think at HD. The papers are good for like ?6-10 sq ft of sanding or less if you hit rough edges.

But you will want to take the shine off.

It will be micro glass shards, so wear a mask and gloves and blast off with compressed air when you finish.

It shouldn't be that horrible...

IF you are using Silvertip epoxy; I consider the window open on their slow hardener for 24 hours. Almost as a rule, I sand at 12 hours or more though.

Also, duct tape or lint remover sheets are kept by my bed. That way, when I notice some glass in my ring finger webs; I can remove it. Water won't.

[fallguy1000]

If you are having trouble; it is a likely a paper issue. Fiberglass eats sandpaper. I underbudgeted sandpaper by like a grand for my big build.

New piece, when it stops cutting; trashcan.