Swift Canoe 16 build

[AtTheBrink]

I order the plans today. Looked over the digital plans for an hour or so and came up with some ideas. Deleting the center seat may cause some flex issues on the bottom of the boat. I am thinking about using some small 3/4" x 3/4" stiffeners on the inside and using carbon fiber tape to cover them. Running these the length of the floor they will act like stringers and stop any flex.

[BB Sig]

Thinking about 4-6 inch gunwale caps down each side with rod storage underneath. The caps and rod holders will add in a lot of strength.

Deleting the center seat may cause some flex issues on the bottom of the boat. I am thinking about some small 3/4" x 3/4" stiffeners on the inside and using carbon fiber tape to cover them. Running these the length of the floor they will act like stringers and stop any flex.

If you still are planning the gunwale caps, that should stiffen it up on the top side.

What about adding the 3/4 stock on the bottom of the hull? Kill two birds with one stone? Less to trip over...

[AtTheBrink]

That's a good point Barry. I have been thinking about that. Putting them on the outside will obviously affect draft. I know 3/4" doesn't seem like much but sometimes it means getting to the fish or not. But tripping and falling out of the boat doesn't help either. Running fore and aft, do you think they would really be a tripping hazard?

I am still toying with the idea of using foam for all the interior structure. How much of a weight savings would this get me?

[topwater]

How about just glassing the inside and outside of the hull bottom panels with a layer of 12 oz glass .
3/8 " ply with a layer of glass both sides is stronger than 1/2" ply. I would assume it would be the same
for 1/4" ply. Just ask the designer

[AtTheBrink]

The plans call for the hull to be glassed inside and out with 12 oz glass. But I'm not going to be putting the center seat frames in the boat. I want it to be more open. Cape Man said that his Super light SC16 has some flexing in the bottom panels. I'm just thinking of some solutions for that problem. He used 4mm for his bottom panels, I am planning on using 6mm. I want to put a 8 or 10hp on the boat so I need a strong, stiff bottom.

[topwater]

I cant remember if he glassed both sides or not he was going for lightest weight possible.

[Coach]

I am starting my first build and its a slightly modified version of the SC-16. I also want to remove the thwart seat and am planning on replacing with a tiller grab seat with a spot for a 6 gallon portable fuel tank under the seat. I will also have an extended front deck as well as rear storage/cooler.
I built the transom wider and raised the sheer just under 4". This is so I can add a full sole with stringers about 3" or 3.5" high. Not sure yet. Will figure that out at flip.

I just ordered the epoxy from BBC and am expecting the Easter Bunny to drop it off this weekend! I am about a week away from bringing my project outside and setting up my strongback again, tie her together and start working on the seams.

Here is where I am at now: Coach's SC-16
https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... 6&start=10

I played around this winter in my basement with hardboard first then bought 7mm Okoume for sides and bottom. So you will see that at the beginning of the thread.

Looking forward to following your build! I did alot of reading and was impressed with Hermine the Super Light SC16. She's a beauty. I am striving for a finish just as nice, however a heavyweight in comparison.

Coach

[cape man]

Hermine is 4mm plywood sandwiched between 4 oz cloth, inside and out.

[AtTheBrink]

Coach, I am going to be doing my build similar to yours. Still thinking about doing the framing and decks in foam to save some weight. I received my plans last week and I have been messing around with drawing a wider transom on her. I was thinking of adding 6 inches to the transom width but not adding anything to the overall beam of the boat. I think this would add stability when starting an outboard. Haven't made a firm decision yet and haven't run it by JM.

A word of warning though! It's not all that straight forward. Adding width changes lots of dimensions and angles. Be careful and go slow and buy a couple extra sheets of plywood. I added 10% to the width of my last boat, FS18 and learned the hard way. Everything came out in the end but it was a real challenge.